ENO La traviata Review – 28 October 2023 by Maxine Morse
The ENO’s La traviata has the feel of a Parisian 1920’s nightclub, enveloped in blacks and reds, with a cast in tuxedos and bob haircuts. The pared down staging puts the focus firmly on stand-out vocals, intense dramatic sequences and beautifully controlled conducting.
We are invited on a two-hour rollercoaster, taking a stomach-churning lurch to the highs of Violetta’s parties, where her inebriated frenemies are willing her downfall. Then there is a slow dip into her life in the country while she pursues true love before our carriage goes through a dark tunnel when she rejects her lover before we reach a slithering halt in her failing health and death.
If you are accustomed to the many fin de siècle productions of La Traviata, with their stately homes and tulle ballgowns, you may find Johannes Leiacker’s set a challenge. Almost devoid of props and scenery, layers of red velvet curtains are tugged, drawn and pulled to create the various scene changes.
The delicious period feel is largely down to the chorus direction with its joyful goading and clenching of wine glasses at the party to the casino where the chorus purposefully stride across the stage and toss playing cards – minimalist but immensely effective.
The revival director, Ruth Knight gets to the heart of Verdi’s preoccupation with realism in her characterisation of the principal part. Violetta is not the archetypical fallen woman but an embodiment of mystique, power and angst brought down by her relationships with inferior, impotent men and seen through the narrow prism of societal constraints.
Nicole Chevalier brings strength to the role of Violetta with her glorious tsunami of raw emotions. By her final aria Addio del passato (‘It’s over, all those memories full of laughter’) she has lost her wig and her soulful lament is one that will haunt the audience long after the opera is over.
The antithesis of Violetta is her lover, Alfredo Germont (Jose Simerilla Romero). This beige-cardiganed, socially-awkward bookworm conveys all the personality of damp cardboard. Romero rises perfectly to this challenge by first seducing us with his febrile veneration of love and then blasting us with forceful vocals as he blames Violetta for shaming him.
Completing this dark triad is Alfredo Germont’s father. Giorgio Germont performed by Roland Wood is convincing in his display of oily, bourgeois respectability as he coaxes and cajoles Violetta to leave his son in order to protect the family’s reputation.
In the final scene, the supporting performers enter from the rear of the stalls and approach the stage to look on Violetta’s demise as if from the audience perspective – each one exuding a powerful and almost frozen presence.
Verdi’s score sparkles under the baton of Richard Farnes from the energy of brindisi with its insistent rhythms to the slower and perfectly controlled movements of the final death scene.
The director’s decision to forego an interval has the effect of asking the audience to drink a triple shot of absinthe…performing La traviata without a pause adds not only to the psychological intensity but also to the audience’s physiological discomfort. And when it ended no one leapt for the doors; instead, thundering applause and foot stamping brought the house down.
Maxine Morse
Maxine trained as an opera critic on ENO Response the opera critics training scheme sponsored by the English National Opera and mentored by Critics’ Circle. She is currently taking live performance reviewing courses at the City Lit and Harvard University.
Please get in touch if you would like her to review opera for your publication.
UNITED KINGDOM, LONDON
La traviata at the English National Opera.
Nicole Chevalier as Violetta, Jose Simerilla Romero as Alfredo and Roland Wood as Giorgio Germont in the Peter Konwitschny production of Verdi’s La traviata continuing the 2023 to 2024 season of the English National Opera at the London Colosseum. The opening night for ENO’s La traviata is on the 23 October with performances up until the 12th November.
ENO Iolanthe Review – 10 October 2023 by Maxine Morse
If ENO’s Iolanthe were a cake it would be a Unicorn cake with a deep buttercream icing and liberally covered with edible glitter and hundreds and thousands with a surprising layer of tongue tingling popping candy.
The director Cal McCrystal’s hallmarks are retro spectacle and masterly comic timing with splashes of whimsy and political satire. When combined with the unique talents of conductor Chris Hopkins, who takes a precision aim at delivering musical oomph, and Paul Brown, the Dior of costume and set design, the overall effect is nothing but a full-on sugar rush.
I am not a big fan of Gilbert and Sullivan’s prologues but Clive Mantle as Captain Shaw fluffed the audience with a good poking of fun at the opera going classes and a portent of fire-fighting silliness.
The late Paul Brown’s set resembles a 1950’s children’s book with its die cut wing and backdrops. The opera’s pièce de resistance is a life size steam locomotive which bursts through as if straight out of the comic golden age, unloading its cargo of crown and gown clad peers. Such was the stunning effect that I was sitting next to a world-weary television personality who broke the Coliseum’s strict ‘no photography’ rule and whipped his phone out to take a sneaky snap. Do not try this yourself!
Iolanthe has been banished from the fairy world for getting married to a mortal. Her son, a lowly Arcadian shepherd, falls in love with the equally vacuous, toile costumed Arcadian shepherdess, Phyllis. As ward of the chancery, she needs the permission of the Lord Chancellor to wed. Unfortunately, every dull, titled, money and status obsessed peer of the realm, including her guardian, is keen to wed her. Will she be allowed to marry her heart’s desire, or is she condemned to wed one of her less suited suitors? And what about those cute fairies who are besotted with those same dullards? Will they be allowed to live a life of wedded bliss or be condemned to death? We shall see…
Strephon (Marcus Farnsworth) the Arcadian shepherd has a touch of David Walliams about him, slightly obtuse and ditzy, a personality twin to the all-too-perfect Phyllis (Ellie Laugharne). Both carry the audience with their charming comical antics and deliberations.
John Savournin as the Lord Chancellor is a Gilbert and Sullivan stalwart. He excelled as Captain Corcoran in the ENO’s 2021/22 HMS Pinafore and is hot off the Opera Holland Park stage as Ruddigore’s Sir Despard Murgatroyd. Savournin, a confident performer with a conversational singing style, made a fast paced word salad of his tongue twisting Chancellor’s Nightmare.
The off libretto popping candy involved pooping horses, sheep ferried about by stage hands blinded by their camouflage and a shaggy-haired, partying Boris accompanied by a permanently surprised and gormless Michael Gove. A pot shot is taken at Nadine Dorries, who is responsible for the ENO’s current funding crisis, as she hilariously tries to break back in to the Houses of Parliament. And we loved the analogy of the Lord Chancellor having a terrifying nightmare that he had to move the Palace of Westminster to the frozen north as part of the government’s levelling up agenda. Perfect!
Did the Lord Chancellor’s page make it out of the performance physically unscathed? He is bounced from place to place – falling, being clobbered and then dropped from a great height. Give the marvellous Adam Bown his own one-man comedy show.
Please check out our other reviews and if you are new to opera you may find these tips useful for your first visit.
The ENO’s Iolanthe fairy world is a colourful pot pourri. Each fairy costume has been painstakingly designed to match the fairy’s unique personality – be that sexy and sultry, rotund and matronly or fun and impish. And the fairies stole our hearts. Petra Massey’s zip wire punching aerial antics have the charm of a Renaissance cherub. Bethan Langford as Leila exudes demure dimple-poking sweetness. The metal-clad, Wagneresque Queen of the Fairies, Catherine Wyn-Rogers, electrifies with a powerful performance embodying matriarchal warmth and strength. Samantha Price as Iolanthe brings her distinctive mezzo soprano and balletic moves to the titular role.
All in all, Iolanthe is a splendid frothy confection that will be voraciously devoured by both adults and children alike.
Maxine Morse
Maxine trained as an opera critic on ENO Response the opera critics training scheme sponsored by the English National Opera and mentored by Critics’ Circle. She is currently taking live performance reviewing courses at the City Lit and Harvard University.
Please get in touch if you would like her to review opera for your publication.
UNITED KINGDOM, LONDON
Iolanthe at the English National Opera.
Samantha Price as Iolanthe and John Savournin as the Lord Chancellor in Iolanthe in the Cal McCrystal production of Gilbert and Sullivan’s operetta Iolanthe continuing the 2023 to 2024 season of the English National Opera at the London Colosseum. The opening night for ENO Iolanthe is on the 5 of October and then 12 performances up until the 25th of October.
The ENO’s Peter Grimes is not going to be a cosy night at the opera. You can see that in the sparse cantilevered set – dark and gloomy. This will be harrowing viewing.
In a small gossipy fishing village on the English East Coast we find the brow-beaten Peter Grimes (Gwyn Hughes Jones) standing trial for the death of his apprentice. Grimes protests it was an unfortunate accident and Swallow (Clive Bayley), the prosecuting lawyer, forcefully disputes his account much to the delight of the baying crowd. Reluctantly acquitted, Grimes is clearly guilty in the court of public opinion.
Peter Grimes, the impoverished fisherman, is the Borough’s scapegoat. Neither likeable or dislikeable, he melds into his grimy and grey surroundings. But he has dreams. Conventional, keeping up with the Joneses dreams, of a wife, a house, a happy life and money. This will buy him status and an escape from exclusion.
Unable to work alone or pay for adult labour, he must fly in the face of Swallow’s advice by finding another apprentice to repair nets and help haul fish.
Ellen Orford (Elizabeth Llewellyn) longs to marry Grimes. He is not a catch but probably the best that a lonely widow can do. She convinces the Borough that she will nurture and safeguard any child procured for Grimes from the workhouse.
Grimes has spied a shoal of fish. But a deadly storm is brewing. Grimes sees his chance as no other fishermen will be brave enough to net it. The boy is tired and terrified.
We can see this is not going to end well…
Elizabeth Llewellyn starts out scratchy and screechy, singing in the upper range of her register, mirroring her inner desperation. Her voice mellows into a powerful angst-ridden performance that propels us into her inner world of hopes and dreams that are constantly dashed like waves crashing on the shoreline.
Peter Grimes’s apprentice, Rudy Williams, with his animalistic hiding behaviours and mute writhing, perfectly conveys the sheer fright of being apprenticed to a potential murderer.
Set against the theme of social alienation is a Dickensian exploration into small town bigoted bloody mindedness. The hypocrisy of the village is laid bare. The apothecary Ned Keene (Alex Otterburne) is not above supplying laudanum to the elderly Mrs Sedley (Anne-Marie Owens), a sleuthing Miss Marple who in turn, gleefully spreads unfounded gossip about Grimes in her drug fuelled haze.
Two pre-pubescent nieces (Cleo Lee-McGowan and Ava Dodd) who hopscotch dance and carry their dolls are sexual fodder for the sleazy fisherman and Methodist preacher Bob Boles (John Findon).
Their Auntie, a pub landlord (Christine Rice) prowls round the stage in her fur coat and walking stick. Rice’s forceful vocals make her the embodiment of female power in this male centric society. She is after all the purveyor of sex and alcohol.
The chorus scenes shine bright. Mob rule at its best. The movement director, Maxine Braham, does a fine job of creating spectacle after spectacle…the crowd clench fists, clasp hands and punch the air…or dance a surreal country jig reinforcing the notion that this tightly knit community will be seeking their next victim when they have dispensed with Grimes.
Director David Alden creates a thrilling psychological spectacle. On occasions, he takes things too far. Would even the most despicable drunk sexually intimidate an elderly woman?
Please check out our other reviews and if you are new to opera you may find these tips useful for your fist visit.
It is rare to find an opera where the lighting plays such a pivotal role in evoking a menacing atmosphere. Lighting revival designer, Gary James, takes us from bleak seashore to dim workhouse, to cosy pub, to evening street party and then to Grimes’s solo dramatic soliloquy with its strong, almost incandescent, light and black shadows.
Gwyn Hughes Jones role is challenging. It calls for a socially inept man who yearns to rise to life’s challenges but is held back by lack of self belief. Hughes Jones slips into this role with apparent ease, neither singing too forcefully or too timidly. His voice convincingly conveys the twists and turns of his enigmatic situation.
Martyn Brabbins is a master of orchestral control. He sweeps the audience up in the stormy, frothing sea, harbour bustle, misery and hopelessness. The orchestra came on stage for much-deserved applause during the curtain call. Their performance was the tour de force of the night.
We prayed hard and fervently for Grimes to reappear with his workhouse apprentice…simply a misunderstanding. Or for him to heed Ellen Orford’s plea to “Come home out of this dreadful night”. Engulfed by his feelings of unworthiness and hopelessness, he is swayed by the devilish suggestion from Captain Balstrode (Simon Bailey) to take his boat out far from shore and sink it.
Who will be the Borough’s next victim?
Maxine Morse
Maxine trained as an opera critic on ENO Response the opera critics training scheme sponsored by the English National Opera and mentored by Critics’ Circle. She is currently taking live performance reviewing courses at the City Lit and Harvard University.
Please get in touch if you would like her to review opera for your publication.
UNITED KINGDOM, LONDON, 18th September 2023
ENO Peter Grimes at the English National Opera.
Gwen Hughes Jones as Peter Grimes in the David Alden production of Benjamin Britten’s opera Peter Grimes opening the 2023 to 2024 season of the English National Opera at the Colosseum. The opening night is on the 21st of September and then 8 performances up until the 11th of October.
Looking for a London Red Bus Tour and don’t want to pay through the nose for an overpriced tour? Have you thought of seeing London on a public bus?
A one day bus pass for an adult costs £5.25 and you can hop on and hop off all day long. Some bus routes are better than others for touring London. I recommend numbers 9, 11 and 75.
Let’s start our series of budget London red bus tours with the number 9 route which passes iconic London sights like Kensington Palace, the Royal Albert Hall, Harrods, Hyde Park, Buckingham Palace, Piccadilly Circus, Trafalgar Square and Covent Garden.
The number 9 bus route can be seen on the Transport for London website. We are going to concentrate on the section from Kensington Palace to Covent Garden
London Red Bus Tour Number 9 Route
Buses in central London leave every few minutes so there’s no need to get hung up on bus arrival and departure times.
You can get off the bus whenever you want and then simply go back to the same bus stop when you are ready to resume your journey.
The best seats for this London Red Bus Tour are the top of the double decker at the front…otherwise choose a window seat with uninterrupted views.
1. Kensington Palace
Kensington Palace
Obviously, you’d be mad to miss Kensington Palace . It was the birthplace of Queen Victoria and continues to be home to Royalty including Prince William and Princess Catherine. When Prince Harry and Meghan Markle were courting they had a cottage in the grounds.
The state rooms are open to the general public. Kensington Palace’s forte lies in its display of court jewellery and costumes. There are beautiful clothing displays including Princess Diana’s much photographed dresses.
The controversial Princess Diana sculpture is the Sunken Garden which you can visit free of charge. You decide…does it do her justice?
The scones and cream in the cafe are particularly good and there is a nice outside courtyard area in which to enjoy them.
Kensington Palace: The King’s Staircase
Now its time to begin your budget London red bus tour adventure…board the Number 9 bus at Kensington Palace.
2. The Royal Albert Hall
The Royal Albert Hall
Our London Red Bus Tour goes past the Royal Albert Hall which is a famous concert space known for the annual classical music festival the Proms.
Facing the Royal Albert Hall, is the Prince Albert Memorial which Queen Victoria commissioned in memory of her husband Prince Albert with whom she had nine children. It’s our equivalent of the Taj Mahal; a tribute to enduring love.
The Royal Music College
Behind the Royal Albert Hall you will find the Royal Music College with its exciting programme of low cost music recitals. You can find out about their current programme here.
3. Knightsbridge Station
Harrods
Our third stop is Knightsbridge where you will find the ultra exclusive Harrods department store. Nestled inside is a shopping arcade of high-end brands, luxury designer handbags and a jaw dropping food hall.
Harrods food hall is just the place to pick up a sandwich, sausage roll, pork pie, quiche or any other portable delight to enjoy on your London red bus tour.
Harvey Nichols
Equally luxurious is the nearby Harvey Nichols department store with its focus on fashion and premium makeup.
Return to the bus stop to continue your budget London red bus tour as we are now going to chill out in London’s best known park.
4. Hyde Park Corner Station
Hyde Park
Hyde Park is the largest London Royal park. It has two outdoor cafes overlooking a man-made lake and is dotted with hire by the hour deckchairs.
The more energetic may enjoy a boating trip or an outdoor swim.
Hyde Park is just the place to decompress. Take a stroll through the Rose Garden or have an ice cream in the Italianate garden.
Get back on the bus as our next stop will involve art, more royal palaces and afternoon teas.
5. Green Park
Park Lane
The bus crosses the end of Park Lane, home to luxury 5 star hotels including the Dorchester, the Four Seasons and the London Hilton. Which has the most luxurious foyer? You decide.
The Wellington Arch and Green Park
On the right, you will see the Wellington Arch, Green Park and the walls of Buckingham Palace.
Buckingham Palace
You can get off the bus here for Buckingham Palace which is a 10 minute walk through Green Park.
The exterior of Buckingham Palace
The Ritz
Look out for the world famous Ritz Hotel which has hosted celebrities and royalty for decades. Afternoon Tea is a spectacular affair but it will be necessary to book well in advance and adhere to their strict dress code.
The Ritz
We have a useful blog post on how to have a day out at Buckingham Palace and the Ritz. We include exploring the St James’s area.
The Wolseley
You are now on my favourite street, Piccadilly. It has the Wolseley with its beautiful monochrome interior and one of the best afternoon teas in London (a bargain compared with the adjacent Ritz).
Banana Split at the Wolseley – probably the best dessert in London.
It is almost worth visiting the Wolseley just to eat their banana split.
The Royal Academy
The Royal Academy famous for its Summer Exhibition
On the left you will see the Royal Academy which is home to the celebrated Summer Exhibition. Any artist can submit a piece of work for consideration…you will see the most bizarre ideas.
We reviewed Loneliness of the Soul by the controversial Royal Academician, Tracy Emin. This will give you a taste of what to expect.
The Royal Academy has free galleries and loos…the outdoor cafe with its tables and umbrellas is a nice place to sip cappuccino away from the bustle of Piccadilly.
The Burlington Arcade
Next door to the Royal Academy is the Burlington Arcade an indoor shopping street with luxury brands and a distinctive period feel.
Fortnum & Mason
Opposite the Royal Academy is Fortnum & Mason, the Queen’s Grocer. Pay a visit to see its beautiful food displays. Tourists beat a path here for its legendary loose tea and quality preserves.
No need to buy groceries, some say that afternoon tea at Fortnum’s is the best in London.
Fortnum & Mason with its fabulous window displays and artistically arranged food.
If you walk up Piccadilly, past Fortnums, you will see the Royal book seller Hatchards. It has an old fashioned, very British style and service making it a fascinating place to browse.
Hatchard’s book store which supplies Royalty
There are a couple of notable book sellers in Piccadilly including Waterstone’s which is the biggest book store in Europe with 8 miles of books.
St James’s Palace
St James’s Palace the London home of the King and Queen. Photo by James Stringer
Behind Fortnums and Hatchards you will find Jermyn Street with its small artisan shops selling everything from cheese to toiletries, men’s clothing and chocolates.
From here you can walk to St James’s Palace and Clarence House, the London Residence of King Charles III and Queen Camilla.
5. Piccadilly Circus
Piccadilly Circus and the Statue of Eros.
Piccadilly Circus
Piccadilly Circus is London’s equivalent of New York’s Times Square.
If I am honest, it’s not my thing not least because it is crowded with young people enjoying raucous street entertainment.
Visit to take souvenir photos of the Eros Statue, Piccadilly Circus and the LED advertising which is especially spectacular at dusk.
If you are one of the gilded youth, you maybe able to pick up the man or woman of your dreams by sitting on the steps of the Eros Statue.
The Criterion Theatre and the Criterion Restaurant
The charming Criterion Theatre with its distinctive 20’s vibe faces the Eros statue.
Next door, you’ll find the preserved gold mosaic interior of the former Criterion Restaurant. Lately, it has gone downmarket and is now a chain Indian restaurant. Not all progress is improvement.
Brasserie Zedel
If you are hungry, I can recommend a hidden gem. Brasserie Zedel with its well priced set menus is a basement restaurant on the Regent’s Street Side of Piccadilly Circus. It looks like a small cafe above ground and nothing alerts you to its gleaming Gallic interior and crystal chandelier.
The basement restaurant foyer of Brasserie ZedelThe plush French brasserie styled interior of Brasserie Zedel
At Brasserie Zedel you will also find the Art Deco American Bar which serves classic cocktails and the vibrant red and black Crazy Coqs night club.
The Crazy Coqs night club at Brasserie Zedel
Regent’s Street
Regent’s Street is less crowded than Oxford Circus with more style and class. It contains many mid priced stores like Zara and H&M alongside luxury brands.
At the top of Regent’s Street, you will find Liberty with its Revival Tudor frontage constructed from the timbers of three ancient battle ships.
Now return to Piccadilly Circus and get comfy on the bus as we are heading to a famous sight…one that screams London.
6. Trafagar Square
The famous bronze lions at Trafalgar Square Photo by Alan Light
Trafalgar Square
This historic square was designed by John Nash to commemorate the Battle of Trafalgar. It is now a popular meeting point and site for political demonstrations. Look out for the fourth plinth which is a showcase contemporary art.
The National Gallery
At the north end of the square you will see the National Gallery with its free public exhibitions containing the works of almost every painter of any note from Rembrandt to the Impressionists.
The National Gallery home to important works of art.
The National Portrait Gallery
Around the corner from the National Gallery is the newly refurbished National Portrait Gallery. This used to be a dusty mausoleum of an art gallery until they hired Sir Roy Strong as its flamboyant and creative director. He breathed a new life into its exhibitions and you will see all sorts of work that push the boundaries of what’s possible in portrait painting.
The London Coliseum
Opposite the National Portrait Gallery in Saint Martin’s Lane, you will find the London Coliseum which is home to the English National Opera.
The ENO is famed for its inclusivity with seats starting at £10. There are some fantastic offers for new opera goers, school children and the under 35s.
All of its operas are sung in English. Note the the opera season here is from Autumn to Spring.
7. Southampton Street/Covent Garden
Covent Garden Market
Now you are probably on your knees with exhaustion, so I would recommend making Covent Garden your final stop. This used to be a fruit and vegetable market but now it has a lively street market selling art, crafts and London souvenirs.
Covent Garden Street Performers
A Covent Garden Street Performer on her lunch break.
Covent Garden is just the place for a coffee, drink or ice cream while watching street performers. Last time I was in Covent Garden I stumbled upon the ice cream bar Milk Train. Their sundaes looked amazing. There were queues round the block so clearly they tasted amazing too.
Covent Garden Restaurants
Notable restaurants here are the historic Rules which specialises in British cuisine like pies and puddings and Balthazar – a stylish French restaurant.
Regular opera goers also recommend Le Garrick and Frenchie for their reasonably priced pre opera menus.
The Royal Opera House
The Royal Opera House
A grand finale for your could be a trip to the opera. You can have the experience of a lifetime by visiting the Royal Opera House where you will hear world class performers singing opera in glorious burgundy velvet surroundings.
Concluding our London Red Bus Tour
Don’t you think that it is amazing what you can see for the cost of a £5.25 one day bus pass? If you take this tour as a single journey without leaving the bus it will cost £1.75. You can pay by Oystercard or credit card. If you have travelled in by tube, your budget London red bus tour will be part of your capped daily spend, therefore it may cost you no extra.
There’s nothing quite like attending the opera for the first time in London. I often take my friends who are opera virgins who invariably ask the same questions about how to prepare, what to expect, what to wear and how to behave…let’s see if I can answer them.
The Coliseum is a beautiful Frank Matcham designed theatre. It is swathed in red velvet with ornate stucco ceilings and statues at every turn. You will find it in St Martin’s Lane near Trafalgar Square. It is home to the English National Opera. As the name may suggest, all of its performances are sung in English so no need to lose the plot. The ticket prices are friendly. Many are priced at under £20 and there are fabulous deals for young people and new opera goers. Recently, I had one of the cheapest seats in the house which was £10 in the balcony and I had a very good view of the stage and subtitles.
The Royal Opera House
The Royal Opera House is one of the most chic and glamorous venues in town. It is famous for its multimillion pound productions, world class singers and fabulous sets. Each opera is sung in its original language. A seat at the front of the stalls will set you back about £200. Many performances are booked up months in advance. In the amphitheatre, on the fifth floor, there are more affordable seats. The cheapest seats are dotted about on the upper floors and are standing only You may also be able to find a cheap seat in the amphitheatre side slips.
The Royal Opera House
Dress Elegantly for a Night at the London Opera
Going to the London opera is one the most memorable experiences you will have. People go to be seen. So make an occasion of it and put on your most glamorous outfit.
I see women visiting the London opera wearing sequins, gold and silver embellished knitwear, silk scarves, costume jewellery, Chanel jackets, cocktail dresses, velvet, diamante, diamante and diamante.
People make correspondingly more effort with their attire in the stalls and boxes which are the more expensive seats. Arguably the opera goers at the Royal Opera House make more effort (but this is controversial!).
London is an inclusive place and you will see a lot of young people in ripped jeans and street wear. But if you dress down for the London opera you may feel a bit out of place.
Prepare for cold, drizzly London weather when you leave the venue in winter. Bring hats, scarves and thick coats. Most people take public transport home.
Dress elegantly when attending opera for the first time.
Read the Plot Synopsis
Read the plot synopsis on the London opera house website before you arrive. You will get much more from the opera if you know in advance what happens. Specifically, make a mental note of how many acts there are and when and how long each interval is. Some operas are five hours long! If there are several short acts, the director may ask the audience to remain seated for a 5 minute set change.
If you would like to know more details about the production, including the careers of individual artists, buy a programme. This is also a good way to support London opera.
If time and enthusiasm permit, use You Tube to research any famous arias or pieces in your opera like Brindisi in Verdi’s La Traviata. Then you will instantly recognise these special moments and the raucous applause following them.
Research the opera in advance.
Get to the London Opera Early
Part of the fun of a night at the London opera is to soak up the atmosphere. I get there shortly after the doors open which means that I can collect my ticket before the queues form. I then go to the bar.
Getting there early means you will have time to photograph the stunning interiors before people arrive.
This is a wonderful opportunity for people watching…you will see politicians, celebrities and swathes of London society especially on press night.
The Royal Opera House is magnificent. It has been enhanced by a recent restoration. You could spend your pre-show time taking the escalators between the different floors and checking out the modern bars, sumptuous restaurants and costume displays exhibited in glass cases which line the walls.
Soak up the atmosphere by having a coffee or a drink before the performance
Use the Cloakroom
Like almost all London theatres, there isn’t much leg room in either of our main opera houses. If you leave your coat and extra bags on the floor, latecomers will be clambering over both you and your prized possessions. Park your belongings in the cloakroom before the opera starts. It’s considered polite to stand as people pass you in the row. Don’t be the rude person who stays seated and expects people to clamber over them.
Use the cloakroom or put your coat under your seat.
Be on Time for your First Opera
The curtain goes up exactly on schedule. If you are late, you may not be allowed to gain entry until a suitable break in the performance. The ushers may also move you to a different and inferior seat to that shown on your ticket until there is an interval. You will hear a bell ringing at intervals warning you of the need to get to your seats. It is better to have a meal or a sandwich at the venue than risk being late by eating in a local restaurant and rushing.
Turn off Your Phone
Double check and triple check that you have turned off your mobile phone…and then check again. Operas are sung without any amplification, with the orchestra playing under the singer’s voice. This means that the slightest noise can be heard even the vibrations of a phone set to silent
If a phone rings the whole audience will as one, irately mutter under their breath.
Don’t think you can take a sneeky peak at your phone while burying it in your handbag. Lighted screen glow like a beacon in the darkened auditorium and you’ll be seen by everyone, both behind and above you! A lighted phone will not only risk the ire of those around you but it will command the attention of an usher who will whisper in your ear to turn it off…very embarrassing.
Turn your phone completely off before the opera starts
Exchange Pleasantries
You will be sitting in close quarters with people on either side, so acknowledge your neighbour and exchange a few pleasantries, this way they will be helpful and patient when you need support leaving your seat, cough involuntarily, or require them to stand as you arrive after the interval. These conversations are usually quite dull, along the lines of “Have you seen this opera before?”, “I love this building!”, “I am keen to hear the soprano.”
Opera glasses are a must if you are in the back of the dress circle, upper circle or amphitheatre (Royal Opera House) and balcony (London Coliseum). This will allow you to see facial expressions, costumes and set details.
A few cough sweets, paracetamol and tissues are useful emergency items. If you find yourself in the middle of a row, you are not going to be able to leave your seat if you have a coughing fit or a headache. This has happened to me on a few occasions when I have had coughing fits that have come from nowhere and lasted agonising minutes,
Operas are a lesson in sitting still in a sphinx like pose.
Opera Glasses
Cough Sweets
Check the Surtitles Every Few Seconds
As a novice opera goer you will be reliant on the subtitles so make sure that you have purchased a ticket with a clear view of the surtitle screen (these are like film subtitles but are on a screen above the stage). During the opera, get into a rhythm of quickly glancing up at the surtitles. They give you the English translation of the performance and are shown even for performances that are sung in English. Then move your eyes down to focus on the stage. That way you will know what is being sung without missing any of the action.
Understand the plot by reading the surtitles
If you are enjoying this post on the attending opera for the first time you may want to read our opera reviews.
Move Fast at the Interval
If you need to use the rest room at the interval, leave your seat as soon as the safety curtain goes down, as within minutes a large queue will form.
The same is true if you are buying interval drinks, be the first at the bar, or better still order your drinks before the performance and they will be waiting for you.
Pre-order your interval drinks
Stay for the Curtain Call
The curtain call is a choreographed spectacle. It is the only occasion at the London opera when you can photograph or video the performers. As the last scene ends, switch your phone on, so that it is ready for action and zoom in. Stand up for the ovation and hold the camera above the heads of those in front of you.
You are encouraged to share the curtain call on social media.
The curtain call is a lot of fun. The leading ladies are given extravagant bouquets, the crowd always booes the villain which he (and it usually is a he) finds amusing, each singer takes a bow, or a curtesy, in keeping with their on-stage character and at times you will see not only the orchestra conductor, but the director and choreographer. This is especially true on Press Night which is usually the opening night of any performance. I was thrilled when Jonathan Miller appeared after a performance of the Barber of Seville at the Coliseum.
Photograph, or video, the curtain call and share on social media
Read our latest opera review on Peter Grimes which started the ENO 2023 opera season in style,
To Get the most out of your First Visit to the Opera Read your Programme
Make use of your tube journey home to read your programme or plot synopsis – research the careers of the cast, the conductor and the director.
And the next morning, do one of two things, check the opera reviews to see if you agreed with the critics, or better still, book your next London opera.
Moving to London or thinking of living here? Maybe you have concerns about high prices or fitting in? Here I lay all of your worries to rest and give you the many reasons why London is the World’s Capital andone of the best places to live regardless of your personal circumstances.
Here are some unarguable reasons to move to London.
London has a Fascinating Geography and Skyline
Consider moving to London for our fabulous architecture.
Most cities that have been burnt to ashes in fires, or blitzed to smithereens in wars are reconstructed on a communist style grid system but not ours.
We have tiny alley ways with ancient pubs nestled next to giant plate glass tower blocks.
Turn a corner and go down a path to seemingly nowhere and you’ll find a hidden court yard which may be the inspiration for Scrooge’s Counting House in Dickens’s Christmas Carol.
Cross our numerous bridges, or take the lift to a viewing platform at the Shard or the Tate Modern and you’ll see our skyline of majestic buildings – St Pauls, Tower Bridge, The Tower of London peppered with newer buildings like the Gherkin, County Hall and the Walkie Talkie.
And look at the red cranes and the scale of new development. The geography of London is constantly changing.
The Shard dwarfing its surroundings
London has Fantastic World Beating Culture
Our arts scene is second to no other country on the planet and there’s no better reason to consider moving to London. You could never be bored here. There is a constant and never ending stream of entertainment and intellectual stimulation.
London has 230 theatres with 100,000 seats available each and every night. They range from the largest theatres which show musicals and blockbusters, to the oldest theatres like the Theatre Royal (May 1663) to the smallest theatres like the Duchess Theatre with just 494 seats.
With their frequently changing programmes, you could go to two shows a day for a year and never see the same thing twice.
The Savoy Theatre next to the Savoy Hotel
Then there are our free world-class museums like the V&A, Science Museum and the Natural History in South Kensington. Art lovers will appreciate the free Saatchi Gallery in Chelsea, the Wallace Collection and the Tate Modern. History lovers will enjoy a day at the London Museum and wannabe Egyptologists and archaeologists and all lovers of antiquities, can join the crowds at the British Museum.
And when you’ve exhausted their permanent galleries you can go their special exhibitions where treasures are gleaned from around the world. Use a National Art Pass for discounted entry.
London galleries have art of all genres which is a great reason to move to London.
Our Love of the British Royal Family is Another Reason for Moving to London
Portrait of the Queen on a £20 note
Most of us Londoners don’t want to be a republic.
We like the fact that our Royals can sit bolt upright, behave with class, wear stockings instead of bare legs in a heatwave, do public good works and save us from the ills of the government of the day. Her Mag has got to be a restraining influence on Boris, surely? After all she holds him to task at a weekly audience and without her, we don’t like to think what might happen!
And when our Royals get it wrong, they get it spectacularly wrong. We then enjoy the gaffes and the blunders. Many of us remember that rogue, Michael Fagan who scaled the walls of Buck House and evaded palace security, to sit at the end of the Queen’s bed. There’s many a pub debate on whether Diana was a latter day saint or mad, bad and dangerous to know. Has Prince Harry lost the plot and been duped by a conniving Meghan Markle or are they “innocent victims of the palace machine”? And don’t get us started on Prince Andrew and his alleged friendship with a friend of an alleged paedophile (and THAT television interview)!
We like the pageantry, the castles, the palaces the pomp and the circumstance…and the time when we met the Queen, or almost met the Queen. And moving to London means that you can share in all the pomp and circumstance that comes with the our royal connections.
Nowhere Does Understated Luxury Like London
Harrods is our most famous store and a byword in luxury
As a nation we aren’t ones to bare all, teeter around in 6 inch heels or wear colossal rocks on our fingers. We prefer understated quality like wool tweed coats, cashmere jumpers and silk shirts. Many of our luxury branded goods are made by Royal Warrant Holders who supply Queen Elizabeth, Prince Philip or Prince Charles.
There is nothing like a stroll round Harrods, Liberty’s, Fortnum and Mason, Jermyn Street and the Burlington Arcade make sense of the London Look.
A Londoner shopping in Regents Street and wearing the iconic Burberry Mac.
Our prestigious hotels are far more than places where the rich stay when visiting London, we arrange to meet our friends for afternoon tea, we use their foyers to host business meetings over a coffee or try to evade capture by the hotel doormen as we sneak passed solely to use the loo.
Luxury cars outside the equally luxurious St Pancras Renaissance Hotel
Here’s what to expect for a hotel afternoon tea.
London’s Bargains and Deals Defy Belief
London has an unjust reputation as being one of the most expensive and pocket draining capitals in the world. And it’s true, if you are going to dive into the nearest cafe or restaurant and zig zag between destinations in a black cab you’ll feel chewed up and used.
Accommodation
The main expense for anyone living here is accommodation, that’s true whether you are on holiday, renting a flat or buying a home. Costs can be reduced by house sitting, staying in hostels, sharing with friends or living in the suburbs. Once your accommodation has been sorted, London can be surprisingly economical.
Travel
The Oyster card (which is the card that you need to travel on London Transport) has a capped daily spend. So you will spend a fixed amount no matter how many journeys you make.
If you are permanent resident and over 60 you currently get free travel (and long may that continue).
Save Money by Moving to London
If you are moving to London on a budget you can focus on the free and cheap stuff. Think:
Museums
Art galleries
Libraries
Window shopping
Lunchtime recitals
Parks
Street performers
Street markets
Street food
Green Spaces with Free Entry
Lesser known is that there are number of roof gardens all over the City and many are free to enter (although some may require online booking).
This is the Crossrail Place Roof Garden in Canary Wharf which is full of exotic plants with many benches and hidden pathways and an extensive programme of free performances and music.
If you are using the Elizabeth Line at Canary Wharf tube station…the Crossrail Roof Garden is above you and accessible by lift or escalator. You may enjoy our blog post on this garden.
Exotic plants in the Crossrail Place Roof Garden in Canary Wharf
Food Deals
Food deals abound. London markets and supermarkets sell their produce off at a fraction of the price at the end of the day. Ask at one of the bigger supermarkets like Tesco, Sainsbury’s, Co-op, Waitrose when they make their evening reductions.
Many chain restaurants do introductory offers which can result in you scoring a free meal. Download apps for the chain restaurants and research deals online. Follow your favourite restaurants on Twitter to be the first to hear of their latest promotion
London markets have bargains galore which are perfect if you are moving to London on a budget.
Cheap Shopping
Every January and July we have sales in our flagship shops and department stores in Knightsbridge and Oxford Circus. In the last few days of the sale, it is not unusual for prices to be reduced by up to 80%
Many People come to London for the January and July Sales
London Weather is Interesting
London has interesting weather.
Our weather changes by the hour, although on most days you can be guaranteed rain. Tourists and newcomers may see this as a bad thing but we tend to like it.
The truth is London weather is as interesting as it is varied. It rarely gets unbearably hot, and neither does it get extremely cold.
Just think, our moderate climate is very good for the complexion and delays ageing.
And you will never stumped for conversation. Our weather is the perfect subject when talking to someone that you’ve just met, or for polite conversation with neighbours when you don’t want to get too intimate.
If you are visiting London in the Winter you must be especially prepared for cold and rainy weather. We advise you on what to pack.
London Transport is World Beating
London Transport is speedy, safe and efficient.
Sometimes, I meet friends who go back home to America and Australia and they return with horror stories of how they had to wait 40 minutes or an hour for a bus.
Well that doesn’t happen when you live in London!
Our trains and buses run every few minutes. You may be crushed like sweltering, sardines in the rush hour and need to carry a bottle of water with you at all times but these are minor inconveniences for a relatively safe and speedy journey.
London Markets Cater for all Tastes and Budgets
London has speciality markets catering for bargain hunters, flea market sifters, artisan foodies and arty craft lovers.
Each market has its own unique personality.
Columbia Road is a flower market with a diverse East End vibe. Covent Garden is known for its upmarket crafts and unusual souvenirs and is popular with tourists. Borough Market, visited by locals, tourists and office workers alike, is famed for its fruit, vegetables and artisan street food. There’s a second hand book market in front of the BFI. Portobello Road is a famous flea market with a lot of bric-a-brac, antiques and second-hand stalls. Greenwich Market has a thriving craft and hippy market as does Camden Town.
And if you see an advertisement for a Car Boot Sale, run don’t walk, you will find local people selling their cast off stuff for a pound or so. A top tip is to get there early and be vigilant as the cars are being unloaded.
Tasty Bland English Food and Boozy Pubs are yet Another Reason for Moving to London
London Pubs serve traditional British food.
Fish and Chips
Full English Breakfast
Bangers and Mash
Steak and Kidney Pie
British food like bangers and mash, fish and chips and steak pie with lashings of gravy are the nectar of the gods.
We don’t need to eat garlicky olives and salamis, or a vindaloo, when we have the right mix of crispy, creamy, gravyness in our national cuisine.
Moving to London Means you can Experience a Unique, Diverse and Multi Cultural Population
London is multicultural and diverse and everyone feels that they belong. And if they don’t feel that they belong, it just means that they need to make a modicum of change e.g. join a new MeetUp, move a mile down the road, speak to a new neighbour.
Meeting a white British Londoner is a bit of a rare thing here…even the people who purport to be British or Londoners aren’t! And when you leave the City for a few days, you miss the melting pot of interesting people and everything that goes with it – the ethnic food, the liberal attitudes and the range of beliefs and life styles.
London Pride is the annual LGBT celebration
Free speech and protests are a hallmark of London life.
Moving to London will allow you to meet different ethnicities
A major plus point of our ethnic diversity is the myriad of cuisines available – you name it, we have it, from the Curry Houses in Brick Lane and Southall, to Chinese restaurants in Chinatown, Jewish bakeries in Stamford Hill and the Middle Eastern kebab shops on the Edgware Road. Whatever you want, and whatever time of day you want it, you can have it.
And with this comes the speciality grocery shops that supply them, so whether you are looking for wonton wraps, pomegranate molasses or dried anchovy, it’s here somewhere near you.
Emigrate to London to Witness Firsthand Tetchy Impatient Londoners
Londoners walking to work.
Londoners, dressed uniformly in black and grey, will leave their suburban homes and descend from the main line stations of St Pancras, Kings Cross, Victoria, Euston and Charing Cross each morning. They will then, unrelentingly and at speed, oblivious to stunning sights, march to their City offices.
Do not stop them, or get in their way or ask for directions. Dithering, pointing, or map reading tourists are likely to enrage them and woe betides anyone who causes them to trip over a wheeled suitcase.
As far as they are concerned, you are a “Johnny Come Lately” and London belongs to them. By living in London you can join us in our bad tempered and impatient ways.
Consider Moving to London to Enjoy the Anonymity
People are like ants at Paddington Station
In London, you are the proverbial drop in the ocean of humanity.
Discharged from prison? Change your name and address and make a fresh start. If you’ve had an argument with a friend, don’t worry about it, you’ll never see them again. Getting over a bad relationship? You’ll find hundreds of better partners living within a few metres of you, online. Fleeing a bad family situation? They’ll never find you here.
London is the perfect place to get lost, start over or disappear. You will never regret moving to London.
Buckingham Palace London is on every visitor’s list but many will leave disappointed. As you cannot enter Buckingham Palace in the Winter, without a plan your visit may involve staring at a set of ornate black and gilded gates with a couple of guards wearing furry hats. Here are tips for avoiding a humdrum, box ticking day to one that will give you an adrenalin high.
Buckingham Palace London Requires a Detailed Plan
Without proper planning you will be staring through the iron gates at a guard in a bear skin hat.
With a bit of forethought a day at Buckingham Palace London could be amazing.
In this plan we suggest the following:
Watching the Changing of the Guards Ceremony
Visiting the Buckingham Palace State Rooms
Viewing the processional carriages and vehicles in the Royal Mews
Seeing the priceless art in the Queen’s Gallery
Having a picnic in St James’s Park or taking afternoon tea at the Goring or the Ritz
Visiting shops which have Royal Warrants on Piccadilly, Jermyn Street and St James’s.
Seeing a Show at the Theatre Royal
The Changing of the Guard Ceremony
The Changing of the Guard ceremony is where one guard regiment takes over from another. This is accompanied by a marching brass band. And best of all, it is free to watch.
The ceremony takes place at 11.00 on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday in Winter (weather permitting) and daily in the summer. Check the British Army website for a detailed schedule.
Get to Buckingham Palace before 10am to bag a prime spot for the Changing of the Guard
The Changing of the Guard Ceremony.
A brass band is part of the ceremony
Significance of The Royal Standard Flying Over Buckingham Palace London
Did you know that if you see the Royal Standard flying from the Palace roof top it means that the King is in residence? On all other days there is a Union Jack flying.
The Royal Standard flag flying over Buckingham Palace London means that the monarch is in residence.
Buckingham Palace London Summer Opening Hours
From July to October, Buckingham Palace is open to the public. You can marvel at:
The White Drawing Room
The Throne Room
The State Banqueting Room
The Grand Staircase
The Picture Gallery
And while you may not be invited to a Royal garden party, your entrance ticket does include Buckingham Palace gardens.
When I was there, I saw Kate Middleton’s wedding dress and a replica of her iced wedding cake.
As tickets sell out months in advance buy tickets early.
Don’t miss the Royal Mews with its impressive collection of carriages and processional vehicles.
Gold Processional State Carriage at the Royal Mews, Buckingham Palace London. Photo by Aurelie
The Official Buckingham Palace London Gift Shop
At 7 Buckingham Palace Road, there is the Royal Collections official palace gift shop selling tasteful homeware, china, clothing and jewellery.
Compared with the tacky, cheaply made fridge magnets and phone covers that are on sale elsewhere, you’ll find carefully curated, elegant and useful items. These are precious reminders of your Royal day out.
Who doesn’t want a furry corgi key ring or a silk scarf? And you can impress that special person in your life with a monogrammed bath hat.
A Corgi keyring which may be more cute than regal
A vibrant blue and gold silk scarf marking the Coronation of King Charles IIIA delightful monogrammed bath hat.
If you are enjoying this blog post, you may also like our posts on Fortnum and Masonthe royal family’s grocer and how to photograph St Paul’s Cathedral.
The Queen’s Gallery
Behind Buckingham Palace is the Queen’s Gallery. This is one of the most famous art collections in the world featuring old master paintings, rare furniture and photos.
Currently, on display is Johannes Vermeer Lady at the Virginals with a Gentleman. You will also find paintings by Titian, Guercino, Guido Reni, Rembrandt, van Dyck, Rubens, Jan Steen, Claude and Canaletto.
The Queen’s Gallery is Just Behind Buckingham Palace London.
Places Near Buckingham Palace London for Refreshments
The Goring Hotel
By now you will be feeling tired and hungry. Staying with our Royal theme visit the Goring Hotel, a luxurious 5 star hotel. It used to house many guests from Buckingham Palace before the palace installed ensuite bathrooms!
This was where Kate Middleton stayed the night before she got married. Make a reservation in advance for afternoon tea.
The Goring Hotel Exterior
St James’s Park
Alternatively, you could buy a packed lunch from one of the many shops in Victoria Place and picnic in St James’s Park.
St James’s Park has beautiful Spring flower displays.There’s a nice view of Buckingham Palace London from St James’s Park
The Ritz was opened in 1906 and is considered to be one of the most prestigious hotels in the world. It has hosted the Aga Khan, Jean Paul Getty, Winston Churchill and Jackie Onassis.
Margaret Thatcher checked into the Ritz in the final months of her life. The only time I saw Margaret Thatcher was when she was invited to the centenary celebrations of the Goring Hotel. She was accompanied by two assistants and despite her obvious frailty she absolutely worked the room – pumping everyone’s hand. It’s strange to think that she took a suite here instead of a nursing home! A woman of style!
The Queen Mother knew a lot about the high life. She dined regularly at the Ritz. The pianist would play her favourite song ‘A Nightingale Sang in Berkeley Square’.
Afternoon Tea is served daily at:
11.30am
1.30pm
3.30pm
5.30pm,
7.30pm
Note that like most luxury London hotels there is a dress code. The Ritz does not permit shorts, trainers and sportswear in any of the hotel’s restaurants or bars.
Afternoon Tea in London
An Afternoon Walk in St James’s
To work off the tea time calories, take a walk around nearby St James’s. This matrix of small streets behind St James’s Palace is home to a large number of Royal Warrant holding shops. Royal Warrants are often awarded to small artisan establishments which make the “best of the best” of British.
Notably, there is Lock & Co Hatters which is theoldest hat shop in the word. It was established in 1676. You can buy iconic trilbys, fedoras, berets and bakerboy caps…for the gents, you can even find a top hat or a bowler hat.
If you are not in the market for a hat, what about cheese? Paxton and Whitfield has been selling cheese to the aristocracy for over 200 years. I have a treasured Laguiole cheese knife which I bought from Paxton’s and it has been in regular use for decades.
If you are visiting and don’t want a hotel room full of smelly cheese you could browse in the Queen’s Grocer Fortnum and Mason on Piccadilly for English teas and preserves
Fortnum and Mason the Royal Grocer
or find a book to read at the nearby Royal Warrant holding Hatchards bookstore.
Hatchards The Royal Bookseller
Evening Entertainment Near Buckingham Palace London
By now it must be dusk and you will be thinking of evening entertainment.
You could walk down to the end of Jermyn Street and cross Piccadilly to see what is on at the Theatre Royal in Haymarket.
The Theatre Royal was established in 1720. It is the third oldest playhouse in London. This beautiful intimate theatre seats just 888 people and is owned by the Crown. Being owned by the reigning monarch means its revenue goes to the Treasury. Sometimes you can get lucky and pick up a ticket on the day at the Box Office. Or you could do the sensible thing and book in advance!
The Theatre Royal Haymarket
If you plan properly instead of a fleeting glimpse of a Coldstream Guard behind the railings of Buckingham Palace London you can have a magical day filled with art, carriages, theatre, splendour, cakes, tea, hats and cheese that you will remember forever.
On a recent visit to the Charles Dickens Museum London, I discovered that Charles Dickens was a bit of a rake and dandy and far more eccentric than my early readings had given him credit for.
In this article we give you insights into the key museum exhibits accompanied by original photographs and explain how to obtain Charles Dickens Museum tickets.
I Visited the Charles Dickens Museum with Fear and Trepidation
Charles Dickens was a prominent feature of my school days, huge dusty tomes featuring characters of a bygone era. Indelibly etched in my young mind was Scrooge in all his miserly unpleasantness and Oliver Twist in the workhouse begging for more gruel. For every rotund, jolly character there would be a sea of filthy, ragged, bare-foot wretches teetering on the brink of starvation. It was with some trepidation therefore that I went to the the rented home of Charles Dickens, the lease of which was purchased with his advance from Pickwick Papers.
Wretched Characters illustrated in Charles Dickens’ Novels
Charles Dickens got into his characters by acting them out in his bedroom mirror… the very mirror that is in his upstairs bedroom.
48 Doughty Street is an Affluent but Ordinary London Town House
In my mind’s eye, I was expecting the Charles Dickens Museum to contain sumptuous splendour, a house bedecked with Christmas decorations shining like jewels and every candle in Christendom lit to illuminate gilded paintings and antique mahogany furniture. Of course, this was erroneous and ridiculous, Charles Dickens was just starting out in his literary career at the time of his life here and this house was reminiscent of the many Georgian and Victorian houses that line the residential areas of the centre of town.
Children’s Bedrooms Pay Homage to Debtors Prison
I climbed the stairs to the top of the museum, to the children’s bedrooms. A pair of bleak rooms with bare wooden floors and simple cots with a room divider of iron bars – the bars of a debtors’ prison. These bars were the embodiment of Charles Dickens’s own lost childhood when his father was in prison in Marchelsea with his wife and young child and the 12 year old Charles was sent to board with an impoverished woman and work pasting labels onto pots in a blacking factory.
The Children’s Bedrooms in the attic of the Charles Dickens Museum.
Rehearsing Characters in the Master Bedroom
With a shudder, I went down a flight of stairs and found myself in Charles Dickens’ bedroom overlooking the genteel Bloomsbury street. Dominating the room was a four poster bed with its burgundy coverlet, a slipper bath beside the fireplace and his wife’s turquoise serpent engagement ring on the dressing table.
The bedroom overlooking 48 Doughty Street
Imagine Charles Dickens taking a bath In front of the fire. The bath tub in the main bedroom of the Charles Dickens Museum.
In the corner of the room was a large pedestaled mirror sitting aloft a dressing table – it was this very mirror that he had used to “rehearse his characters” I imagined him making grotesque faces in the mirror and adopting gasping, breathy tones and childish high pitched squeals as he tested out each character’s veracity in that very mirror.
Ghosts in the Guest Room
I walked to the next room, smaller and with a sunny sense of calm, no ghosts in sight and nothing untoward…until the room attendant told me that it was in this very bed that his wife’s 17 year old sister had died in Charles Dickens’ arms, the trauma of which dogged him and for years to come.
The Guest Room where Charles Dickens’ sister in law died in his arms
Charles Dickens, the Dandy
I skated past the dressing room with its display of a suited mannequin and a wash stand. A room where he would dress each morning and don a fashionable tartan waistcoat. Then he would spend his afternoons strolling around town meeting friends, book publishers, or otherwise attending to his many philanthropic activities (before going to bed with his hair in curlers). What a dandy!
Charles Dickens the Dandy, His only surviving suit is found in the dressing room next to the master bedroom of the museum
Entertaining the Elite in the Salon
Maybe I would find the jolly family atmosphere that had so far eluded me in the family salon. The living room was the theatrical stage for his early talents with the makeshift lectern that he used when reciting stories to friends. I could see Charles Dickens’ guests marvelling over the twists and turns in his plots, gasping in horror at the sheer wickedness of the bosses and overlords.
The Salon where Charles Dickens read from a lectern to entertain his guests.
You may also enjoy our post on another great man Winston Churchill and the Churchill War Rooms. And if you like historical museums read our review on the Museum of London Docklands.
Charles Dickens Study – Do Not Disturb
In the next room ,was the book-lined study where Charles Dickens had written his early works in a quill pen and ink with a spidery hand…tiny writing with numerous scratches and addendum. He worked in this room for 4 hours each morning and woe betide anyone who disturbed him.
Charles Dickens’ large mahogany desk. A prized antique of the museum.
Charles Dickens’ spidery handwriting in blue ink.
Here was a conundrum. Charles Dickens was a man eager for fame, with little formal education yet he wanted to be part of learned society. This house was was sufficiently impressive to be a passport to his place in the world. And it was here, in his first family home, that he and his wife Catherine began to make their mark, inviting interesting people such as the author Elizabeth Gaskell and the historian Thomas Carlyle to dinner.
The Christmas meal in all its splendour
The Heart of the Home in the Basement Kitchen
I felt a longing for the warm embrace of a nearby cafe and a hot drink. I arrived on the ground floor of the Dickens’ residence and was about to leave the Charles Dickens Museum when I saw an illuminated arrow pointing to the basement…was there more? I nearly didn’t go. I’m at an age when I think twice about stairs.
And there it was, in its warmth and splendour, the bosom of the family, a kitchen, a pantry, a scullery and a wine cave – filled with plaster of Paris replicas of fruits, vegetables, roasting meats, jelly, cakes, laundry all on scrubbed work tops curved through chopping and overuse…the heart of 48 Doughty Street. A place setting was laid on the kitchen table for Charles Dickens and as I left I could imagine him eating his lunch with the house keeper bustling around him serving a beef and oyster pie and mash with gravy, the resident hedgehog feeding off the crumbs and insects afoot and his chattering children being ushered upstairs by the nursery maid so he could eat in peace.
The Christmas meal in all its splendour
It looks as if the kitchen maids are getting ready to make pastry. Pies were a big thing in Victorian England.
The Cold Room where the housekeeper made desserts and kept dairy cool.
The Bleak Laundry Room in the Rear Basement
Charles Dickens Museum Accessibility
There is a lift that covers four of the five floors of the Charles Dickens Museum including the basement.
Charles Dickens Museum London Tickets and Admission Prices
Adult: £12.50
Concessions (Students, Seniors and Disabled Visitors): £10.50
Child 6-16 years: £7.50
Children under 6 years: Free
Prices updated September 2023.
You can obtain discounts for museum entry by using the following schemes:
The Museum of London Docklands in Canary Wharf takes us on a gory and gloomy voyage through hard manual labour, executions and slavery of this major London port. Housed in the Grade II listed No 1 warehouse of the West India Docks the museum shows life on the docks at the pinnacle of their importance.
Time to Visit the Museum of London Docklands
Museum of London Docklands Exterior
I have very fond recollections of the London Museum, Barbican with its ornate Art Deco Selfridge’s lift doors, the charming video of waitresses serving afternoon tea at a Lyons Corner House and the exhibits of various cabs and carriages that plied their trade in London’s West End. Sadly, the London Museum, Barbican is temporarily closed as it plans its relocation to a more central location in 2026.
I decided it was now time to head East to explore the Museum of London Docklands. Would it be up to snuff?
Our Journey of Gloom and Despair Begins in the Dockland’s Warehouse
The route through the museum galleries starts on the third floor. As the lift doors ping, we glimpse a darkened gallery of ropes, weighing scales, pulleys and trolleys operated by overworked dockers.
Trolleys and pulleys used by the London dockers
Dock Inspectors and Managers Ensured that all Goods Were Measured, Sampled, Weighed and Inspected.
And on to more doom of fires, prostitutes, ram-shackled, housing and irate dock managers.
The Museum of London’s Executions Exhibits
Can we come up for air yet?
Nope!
Our dear curators have decided that we need a full immersion experience of executions and hangings with a liberal spattering of torture instruments.
You couldn’t make this up.
Torture Instruments and Exhibits
Children these days are monsters and I am sure they are thrilled to see these horrors. I saw no signs of modern parents shielding their little darlings’ eyes.
Sailor’s Town With Its Lodging Houses, Dock Offices and Shops
There was a temporary respite with a stunning alleyway of Victorian era shops, boarding houses and offices. Pure Disney.
A StationersA Dock OfficeA General Hardware StoreLodgings for Sailors
If you are enjoying this blog post on the Museum of London Docklands you may also like to read our reviews of the Charles Dickens Museum and the Churchill War Rooms.
The Museum of London Docklands Stomach Churning Slavery Exhibition
Shocking Images of Tortured Slaves
Onwards and downwards…to the stomach-churning London, Sugar & Slavery exhibition replete with whips, images of tortured semi naked women hanging from trees and metal restraints used to prevent slaves escaping.
Modern Art as a Response to the London Museum Docklands Slavery Permanent Exhibition
If the purpose of museums is to elicit an emotional reaction this was highly successful. I was holding back the tears.
A Talk on the Victorian Wine Trade is a Merciful Respite
Thankfully, I was rescued by an announcement of an imminent talk on the Victorian wine trade. A talk! They should provide wine dispensers at regular intervals through their gory exhibits.
A Coopers’ Workshop with Wine Barrel Repair InstrumentsA Bottling Station Where the Wine is Corked and Labelled
Our lecture on bottling, corking and labelling wines…historical taxation and wine consumption statistics all championed by one William Gladstone was riveting.
I thought of limping to theYe Olde Cheshire Cheese which was rebuilt in 1667 but alas too far, so I limped towards the Exit in search of nearer victuals.
A Beacon of Quality Souvenirs in the London Museum Docklands Shop
Suffragette Christmas Ornaments in the Museum of London Shop
The bright spot in the Museum of London Docklands…the part that makes your spirits soar and your heart sing is the museum shop near the Exit.
This is the very place for London souvenirs that are the pinnacle of good taste. There are purple and green stuffed Women Suffragettes to adorn your Christmas tree…
Quality, embroidered hoodies emblazoned with the London Underground logo and lined in a cotton fabric depicting the tube map.
A Quality London Underground hoodie
Their book department on all matters London would have you browsing for hours.
My Bargain Book With Fabulous Photography
My find was a book on London at Night remaindered at £2 from a previous Museum of London Docklands exhibition. London during the blitz, the seedy side of London’s Soho and Londoners on the night bus kept me entertained on the tube journey home.
Recovering from the Museum of London Docklands at Browns
Browns Restaurant Exterior
Browns West India Quay in the first dock warehouse has a lunch menu at £17.95 served until 5pm. Chain restaurants have a bad rap but I was very happy with my smoked duck starter accompanied by crisp croutons, fresh watercress with a delicate orange dressing.
Smoked Duck Starter at Browns near the Museum of London Docklands
The main course steak was a perfect medium rare and they were happy to switch out the chips for broccoli.
Steak and Broccoli (instead of chips) from the lunch menu of Browns near the Museum of London Docklands
Friendly and unobtrusive service made it the perfect place to recover from a trip to the Museum of London Docklands.
Pass the smelling salts.
Getting to the Museum of London Docklands
The museum is a short walk from the exit of the Canary Wharf Elizabeth line. Follow the signs for the London Museum. As you leave the tube you will see a row of dock warehouses and the museum is in the last building.
You can also take the DLR to West India Quay,
Buses D3, D7, D8, 277, D6 15, 115, 135 stop near the museum.
Museum of London Docklands Tickets
You are encouraged to make a voluntary contribution but entry to the museum is free. There is no need to prebook your ticket.
The museum charges for entry to some of its temporary exhibitions. More information is available on its website.
Museum of London Docklands Opening Times
The museum is open from Monday to Sunday 10am to 5pm.
Museum of London Docklands Parking
There is a public car park behind the Museum of London Docklands on Hertsmere Road.
Marylebone on a budget? It can be done! Explore this little known area sandwiched between Marble Arch and Baker’s Street with a unique village atmosphere, many independent shops, a church that rivals some cathedrals and a sumptuously ornate, free museum. Here is a nuts and bolts guide on how you can have a fabulous day in Marylebone on the cheap.
Each month I show you how to plan a budget day out in an interesting part of London, I throw in some cheap eats, shopping and culture and help you do it for less than £15. If you are travelling on a shoestring budget read on…
Rules for the Marylebone on a Budget, London for £15 challenge
I don’t include tube travel …the over 60s with a London address have a Oyster 60+ card which gives them free travel on the London Underground and buses. Many working Londoners are using Oyster cards with capped daily spends and and most tourists have a prepaid Oyster card.
And I don’t include memberships. If you are a Londoner on a low budget, I advise you to stock up on every subscription and membership that you can lay your hands on…just make sure that they are for venues that you will actually go to several times in the course of the year.
Why Marylebone High Street?
Marylebone is probably the only place that I can think of in the centre of London that has a village feel with markets, charity shops, churches and museums. It has a great foodie vibe with a handful of artisan food shops with authentic produce…no E numbers or factory produce here. What appeals to me is the sheer variety of sights and activities all with the feel of London a hundred years ago.
Moxton Street – a Foodie Heaven off Marylebone High Street
Moxton Street is the epicentre of foodie heaven with some surprising budget finds. At the weekends there is a food market at the end of the road where locals buy their produce and they then stop off at La Fromagerie to recover from their exertions and catch up with friends. Bill Nighy is often spotted in the restaurant Aubaine opposite.
Ginger Pig
The Ginger Pig is renowned for offering a roast lunch which is costed by weight…pork, stuffing, gravy…roasted vegetables with minty, lemony seasonings and gravy. There are also pies worthy of any Charles Dickens novel…hot sausage rolls, Cornish pasties etc. You can easily pick up allow cost takeaway lunch here for £5-£8.
The Butchery section of Marylebone’s famous Ginger Pig.
A good selection of high quality low priced cold meat pies
Great value sausage rolls. Choose the hot ones.
Roast pork with vegetables and salad priced by weight. Infinitely more delicious than the photograph.
La Fromagerie
And then head next door to La Fromagerie which prides itself on sourcing its ingredients directly from top artisanal producers in the UK and Europe.Their food is fresh and beautifully presented. At the rear of the shop are tables dedicated to people sampling cheese boards and wine and there is a cafe with a small kitchen menu that includes the very popular Portuguese Sardines on toasted sough dough with caper berries and Amalfi lemon at £11.50…but as we are on a shoestring budget, I recommend sticking with the picnic idea from the Ginger Pig. Or to hell with it…blow your budget on a Yorkshire Salt Beef Sandwich with homemade slaw at £12 and focus on free activities for the rest of the day!
Whole Cheeses in the Window of La Fromagerie in Marylebone.
Beautiful Food Displays at La Fromagerie.
Go for the Carrot Cake a bargain at £3.20
You can return to La Fromagerie for afternoon tea. They have home made cakes with deep buttery icing that they serve in gargantuan slices…enough for two people. Their cakes are are really good value at £3-£4 a slice, approximately.
After that culinary overload you need to rest, so off to Pret. For frequent low budget adventurers I recommend the Pret Subscription as it allows you to have a free drink every 30 minutes, up to 5 times a day, for £30 a month and 10% off the food menu. Get a free barista coffee, or a cup of British Breakfast tea and leave the tea bag in to steep to get the full malty caffeine hit. I usually park myself on one of their outside tables and eat my picnic there. I know that this is frowned on but no one has said anything yet!
Charity Shops
The adjacent residential houses in Marylebone are all worth millions. They are where the super rich live. So it should come as no surprise that the charity shops on Marylebone High Street are choc full of discarded designer clothes, many unworn and still tagged from Harrods and Harvey Nichols.
Unlike the London suburbs. where you can pick up a piece of bargain second hand clothing for a couple of quid, these charity shop managers know how to price but you’d still be paying a fraction of the cost new.
Even if you don’t buy anything in the charity shops it is fun to look.
Found in a Marylebone charity shop. Is this a bargain? A £150 Pucci silk scarf.
Daunt Books
Welcome to Daunt Books which is probably the most photographed book store in London – an independent bookseller with an original Edwardian interior featuring a two storey gallery which contributes to its olde world charms.
This is the place where celebrities come to do their book signings, so be sure to check out their Events page. Boris Johnson was photographed here recently.
Daunt Books exterior on Marylebone High Street.
Gallery at Daunt BooksThere is a huge selection of London books including this one on London for free.
St James’s Church a Marylebone Church with a Beautiful Gothic Interior
St James’s Church in Spanish Place is not on the tourist circuit but it has an interior that would rival that of many a famous European cathedral. It’s in an early Gothic style. There has been a church in this site for centuries and the current church opened in 1890. There are beautiful paintings, statues and brasses. The church does a lot of work for the homeless. There is a daily mass. The church is free to visit and is a must for your Marylebone on a budget day out – you can make a small donation in the boxes provided.
St James’s church exterior in Marylebone with its flying buttress
Gothic revival interior.
Polished brass tomb covering.
Altar frieze.
Wallace Collection is Marylebone’s Glitzy Glamorous Free Museum
TheWallace Collection is the jewel of Marylebone – a gilded, glitzy, glamorous museum in Manchester Square. It is stuffed with objet d’art, hand carved furniture, armoury and marble statues. And best of all it is free to visit but a small donation is encouraged.
Visit Marylebone’s free museum and see this amazing ornate fireplace offset by red flock wallpaper.
Frans Hals The Laughing Cavalier
The grand marble staircase with gilded balustrade and burgundy carpet.
The Wallace Collection museum shop has things that you might actually want in your home which makes it a rare find in the world of souvenir type shops and it is not too pricy.
Stylish dressing gowns many with London maps or typography.
For those looking for a tasteful apron depicting a naked man.
Entry to exhibitions is currently £14 but you can buy annual membership for the Wallace Collection that would give you free entry to exhibitions for a year for £45 (single adult membership 2023). If you have a National Arts Club Fund membership you can gain admission at a 50% discount for £7. And of course, if you are on a tight budget and without the necessary memberships, there’s plenty to see in the free permanent galleries.
Harley Street and Selfridges
I ended my day with a walk down Harley Street gazing at the practitioners’ plaques and window boxes and did a bit of browsing in Selfridges.
Instead of heading south towards Oxford Street you could extend your day by going north towards Baker’s Street and visiting the free Queen Mary’s Rose Garden in Regents Park. We have a blog post entitled Queen Mary’s Rose Garden – A Sublime Floral Display.
Total Spend for my Marylebone on a Budget Day Out
My low cost day in Marylebone was only £3.20! I only spent money on the cake in La Fromagerie. I was gifted a few food samples as part of my blog research which kept me going.
If you had a picnic lunch from the Ginger Pig or one of the many cafes in Marylebone High Street, used your Pret subscription and focussed on free entry to the church and the Wallace Collection you could have a fab day out for well under £15.
There’s far more to see in Marylebone on a budget, so please subscribe so you don’t miss another London for £15 blog post in the area.
Buckingham Palace London is on every visitor’s list but many will leave disappointed. As you cannot enter Buckingham Palace in the Winter, without a...
To provide the best experiences, we use technologies like cookies to store and/or access device information. Consenting to these technologies will allow us to process data such as browsing behavior or unique IDs on this site. Not consenting or withdrawing consent, may adversely affect certain features and functions.
Functional
Always active
The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network.
Preferences
The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user.
Statistics
The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes.The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you.
Marketing
The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes.
Facebook
Instagram
Pinterest
Twitter