HMS Pinafore at the ENO Review by Maxine Morse

HMS Pinafore is unashamedly the epitome of flag waving, English Englishness. I immediately sensed fish and chips, fairgrounds, childhood cut-out paper dolls and folk watching their Ps and Qs.

HMS Pinafore Review at ENO (c) Marc Brenner
HMS Pinafore Review at ENO (c) Marc Brenner

This 1878 comedy opera, aimed at satirising Victorian inept politicians and ridiculous social mores, has the audience rolling in their seats as the near-knuckle jokes reveals much about their own personal prejudices and proclivities.

HMS Pinafore Cast

So who is taking us on the HMS Pinafore voyage of discovery?

The faffing Captain Corcoran is well liked, despite having all the charisma of a soggy packet of crisps. John Savournin delightfully conveys this blustering ineptitude through his deep, well-modulated tones.

Welcome “his betters” – deluded, class-obsessed Sir Joseph Porter and the exceedingly well-heeled entourage of “his sisters and his cousins and his aunts”. Les Dennis, is a casting masterstroke…his arthritic hips don’t stop him clambering about the deck, chasing the captain’s daughter and sabotaging the carefully choreographed dance routines. He does a blissful job of “When I Was a Lad”. You can envisage him sweeping and polishing as an office junior and marvel at the cronyism that caused him to rise to First Lord of the Admiralty.

Hilary Summers, as Little Buttercup, cuts a matronly, common-sense figure with her fine voice and no-nonsense attitude. You do wonder how one so refined could have been involved in the deplorable profession of baby farming.

HMS Pinafore’s two lovers, Alexandra Oomens (Josephine, the Captain’s Daughter) and Elgan Llyr Thomas (Ralph Rackstraw) are beautifully melodic and hit the highest, highs of dramatic intensity and passion. And then there is a suitably, irritating tap-dancing cabin boy (Rufus Bateman) who masterfully gets into character and produces the desired effect, as I had a burning urge to get on stage to chastise him.

HMS Pinafore Directed for Laughs

Cal McCrystal directs this opera for laughs…a hunched, elderly, confused, stick bearing woman, dwarfed in acres of lime green netting stole the show by falling down a trap door. Boris Johnson, makes a hilarious entrance on a zip wire waving a Union Jack. And the blast of a firing canon wakes the odd audience member who had too much wine at the interval.

Masterly and Upbeat Conducting

Chris Hopkins conducts the orchestra with the energy that you would expect on the last night of the proms…upbeat, punchy, knee bobbing and seamlessly blending with the vocals.

Colourful Period Costumes Worthy of Hollywood

Period costumes by takis, colourful, voluminous and crinolined, turn a bleak sea of blue and white into scenes worthy of “The Greatest Showman”.

The set design has a whiff of extravagance…a huge vessel, rotating to reveal the top deck, the captain’s quarters and the ship exterior.

HMS Pinafore a Glorious and Sumptuous Spectacle

Finally, we must offer posthumous thanks to our fine Victorian composer and librettist, Gilbert and Sullivan who through plot twists and turns, avoid controversy by ensuring that each of our eminent Englishmen marries within his social class.

HMS Pinafore is a glorious and sumptuous spectacle that conveys a simple, almost Shakespearian message, that “all’s well that ends well”. Maybe HMS Pinafore is our rightful reward for surviving Brexit and the dark depths of the pandemic.

You may be interested in our other opera reviews.


Maxine Morse  wrote this review of  HMS Pinafore as part of her opera critics training at the English National Opera. To see other reviews from her training see The Valkyrie,  Così Fan Tutte, The Handmaid’s Tale, Satyagraha, The Cunning Little Vixen and La Boheme.


 

The Valkyrie ENO at the London Coliseum

ENO’s The Valkyrie at the London Coliseum is a performance of stark contrasts. From the orchestra pit we have Ben Hur, Braveheart, The Return of the Jedi and on stage we are submerged in some boggy youth hostel where the ramblers are refreshing themselves with bottled water and tinned meat.

The Valkyrie ENO 2021 (c) Tristam Kenton
The Valkyrie ENO 2021 (c) Tristam Kenton

Sieglinde, no good can come from summoning a man, a self-professed loser who resembles your brother, out of your domestic fireplace…

Sieglinde’s (Emma Bell) voice carries the first act, with rich qualities of love, desperation and urgency. Siegmund (Nicky Spence), a malty tenor with befitting melancholy tones, puts on a brave performance battling a heavy cold. Hunding (Brindley Sheratt) is a man’s man, burly, powerful, intriguing with vocal prowess. It’s a shame he is a bit of a neanderthal wife beater. Why are you in this hippy commune when you could be auditioning for Apocalypse Now?

The Valkyrie ENO 2021 (c) Tristam Kenton
The Valkyrie ENO 2021 (c) Tristam Kenton

In Act Two, we meet our flawed gods. The one-eyed Wotan (Matthew Rose) puts on a bravura show but is let down by his red anorak and dodgy glasses. He aimlessly paces about, lacking the menace and grandiose gestures that are required of the leader of the gods. Please give this man a full-length gold cape, or at least a padded metallic coat!

Fricka (Susan Bickley) also unwell, walks her role with conviction, while Claire Barnett-Jones capably sings the part from a side box, her voice bold and colourful as she pleads with Wotan to spare Siegmund who he has condemned to die for incest. The pyjama-ed daughter of Wotan, Brunnhilde (Rachel Nicholls) is lyrical but her vocals are occasionally thin for the size of the auditorium.

The Valkyrie ENO 2021 (c) Tristam Kenton
The Valkyrie ENO 2021 (c) Tristam Kenton

The set has some nice touches, the cabin with a large girthed trunk housing the sword “Nothung”, the skeletal trees, the blanket of black ash and the suspended bodies… but it falls short. We need more bodies! More blood! More guts! We want our gods to be gods with authority and majesty! We want to be frightened! The pantomime horses and green waterproofed Valkyries just don’t cut it despite their obvious singing prowess.

The Valkyrie ENO 2021 (c) Tristam Kenton
The Valkyrie ENO 2021 (c) Tristam Kenton

Richard Jones’ (Director) modern, minimalist staging is at odds with the demands of the music. Martyn Brabbins proficiently conducts a mammoth orchestra with instruments and musicians flowing from every orifice – the pit, the boxes. The Ride of the Valkyries is a joy to witness; emotional, warlike, musical pyrotechnics at their best.

Westminster Council unhelpfully played the health and safety card and put the kibosh on the fire in the powerful final scene. We are left with the sleeping Brunnhilde, suspended from the ceiling, stripped of her god-like powers, without the ring of fire to defend her from being claimed by the first cowardly, namby-pamby man to come across her. Amp up the lights, project flickering flames, “Alexa, play crackling fire sounds”.

The Valkyrie is a performance of parts, massive colour and drama from the pit, some excellent vocal performances counterbalanced by damp and dreary staging. I am reminded of that urban idiom, “Go big, or go home”.

Check out our other opera reviews.

Tickets for The Valkyrie can be purchased from the ENO website.


Maxine Morse  wrote this review of The Valkyrie as part of her opera critics training at the English National Opera. To see other reviews from her training see Satyagraha, HMS Pinafore, The Handmaid’s Tale, Cosi Fan Tutte, The Cunning Little Vixen and La Boheme.


 

The Cunning Little Vixen ENO REVIEW

 

The Cunning Little Vixen ENO 2022: John Findon as Cock, ENO Chorus © Clive Barda
The Cunning Little Vixen ENO 2022: John Findon as Cock, ENO Chorus © Clive Barda

The Cunning Little Vixen (ENO) tells the tale of a sweet-natured, pointy-eared vixen entrapped by a forester for use as a children’s pet and who is later tied up in the back yard. On escaping, she reverts to her true nature by killing the cock, ravishing the hens and escaping back to the woodland to start a family. She is then killed by an oafish poacher from a neighbouring village.

On the surface, The Cunning Little Vixen (1924) by Leoš Janácek is a charming tale accompanied by the distinctive rhythm of Moravian folk songs but hidden within the plot are deeper allegorical significances.

We are confronted with the beauty of unbridled nature pitted against the moribund and decaying human world – a “four legs good, two legs bad” Orwellian allegory. Contrast the exuberance and free spiritedness of the woodland animals and the dull, dreary lives of the forester, priest and school master.

Sally Matthews sings the key soprano role of Sharp Eyes the Vixen. She successfully conveys the character’s sweet nature – coy, demure but her modest downward gazes mean that her voice is sometimes directed into the orchestra pit. Pumeza Matshikiza provides the perfect counterfoil as her paramour, the Fox. Pumeza’s voice is clear and colourful…any right-minded vixen would find her hard to resist.

Lester Lynch as the Forester, prowls and growls his way around the stage striking terror in his wake. He has a commanding vocal presence which fills the London Coliseum auditorium.

The best comic moments in the Cunning Little Vixen (ENO) stem from the opera’s anthropomorphism. Sharp Eyes describes her background and education as if on a first date and has the audience guffawing at mention of the mating activities of other creatures and when the forester sets a trap, Bright Eyes exclaims “Does he think we are fools?”.

Tom Scutt adopts a television studio set with props and storyline painted onto huge scrolls of paper to give vertical interest. The blackened stage provides a foil for the colourful animal, insect and fauna costumes. There are iridescent insects, metallic red-spotted toadstools and bridal chickens with perfect yellow patent shoes. Some costumes were less successful, a giant ball of fluff turned out to be a family dog and scurrying black-hatted creatures reminiscent of Victorian bobbies could be beetles.

Martyn Brabbins made light work of the conducting which was challenging as the music called for frequent loud and staccato percussion pieces that needed to be perfectly timed not to drown out the vocals. With this in mind it may have befitted the priest (Clive Bayley) and the School Master (Alan Oke) to project their voices more in Act Two to counterbalance the musical score.

And it’s a wrap…the poacher kills the vixen, the forester exits out of the studio back door…we run out of projector tape – it’s the end.

Jamie Manton, pulls the rabbit out of the hat, his direction of The Cunning Little Vixen  (ENO) makes for an exuberant production that relays a charming comic tale and gives something to chew over for those looking for deeper allegorical significance.


Maxine Morse  wrote this review of the Cunning Little Vixen as part of her opera critics training at the English National Opera. To see other reviews from her mentoring see The Valkyrie, HMS Pinafore, The Handmaid’s Tale, Cosi Fan Tutte, Satyagraha and La Boheme.


 

Richmond Park – A Woody Safari Among Ancient Trees

 

Richmond Park
Richmond Park

Richmond Park in Richmond, the famed hunting ground of Henry VIII, is now maintained as a Royal Park yet it still feels wild and wooded. This year I have explored deeper into this vast expanse of nature.

The Different Regions of Richmond Park

Richmond Park comprises different regions each with their own character and attractions. Driving around the circumference road and dodging deer and cyclists, these are the ones that I have recently explored:

  • Isabella Plantation
  • Pen Ponds
  • Pembroke Lodge
  • Robin Hood Gate

Pembroke Lodge the Information Centre and Cafe of Richmond Park

Pembroke Lodge is the centre of the universe of Richmond Park. There is an information centre, a refreshment stand and  a cafe serving classic English fayre of sandwiches, cakes and scones. Behind the wrought iron gates there are elevated formal gardens with panoramic views of Richmond and the city beyond which rival nearby Kew with an abundance of seasonal colour.

Isabella Plantation a Fenced Garden in Richmond Park

This is a wooded fenced area known for its magnificent display of camellias, azaleas and daffodils with a central pond and the cutest ducks with little hats .

The Pond at the Isabella Plantation in Richmond Park
The Pond at the Isabella Plantation in Richmond Park
A Spring Camellia in bloom at the Isabella Plantation
A Spring Camellia in bloom at the Isabella Plantation

 

Pen Ponds

These ponds are a short walk on a slight incline from the Pen Ponds car park. Geese, swans and ducks follow tourists looking for forbidden contraband and bread from soft hearted folk who have decided to ignore the advice of not feeding the ducks. You almost feel that you are on holiday at an exotic lakeside destination.

Ducks and Geese at Pen Ponds
Ducks and Geese at Pen Ponds

Wild Life at Pen Ponds
Wild Life at Pen Ponds

Geese and Ducks at the Water's Edge in one of the Richmond Park Lakes
Geese and Ducks at the Water’s Edge in one of the Richmond Park Lakes

Robin Hood Gate

There’s some interesting fallen trees here with exposed roots, gnarled bark and skeletal shapes in a boggy, marshy expanse of lush grass. Great for taking nature photographs and selfies. It’s a 10- 15 minute walk up to Pen Ponds from here. On my return trek, I was ecstatic to see the herd of red deer who had come out to graze. It was like being on safari in the Serengeti. Honestly, why go to Africa when you can go to Richmond Park!

A Gnarled Tree
A Gnarled Tree

Fallen Ancient Trees
Fallen Ancient Trees

Wild Deer
Wild Deer

A grazing deer
A grazing deer

Practical Advice for Visiting Richmond Park

Car Parking

Richmond Park is free to enter and free to park (we like free!) You are invited to make a donation at card reading machines at the various car parks but this is by no means obligatory.

You can only park in the car parks and if you park elsewhere you are liable for a fine. As a result, the car parks get busy, on sunny days and at weekends you are likely to have more luck parking at the furthest car parks from Pembroke Gate. Currently, you can’t drive the full circumference of the park as the road is closed just after Isabella Plantation on the anti-clockwise stretch.

Check the opening and closing times as you don’t want to get locked in overnight. These times change according to the season.

Driving and Cycling

As you would expect, Richmond Park is  a popular cycling area…think lycra-clad, kamikaze lunatics riding in packs or on their phones. The road is narrow so overtaking is often not an option. Be patient. You don’t want to make the newspapers for all the wrong reasons.

If you are one of those cyclists Richmond Park is your oyster!

Toilets

There are toilets at most of the Richmond Park car parks but you’ll need to check a map to ensure that your chosen car park has those facilities.

Cafes

There are cafes with seating at Pembroke Lodge, Roehampton Gate and Pen Ponds. In the great British tradition, the smaller car parks usually have ice cream vans run by independent vendors. Think whipped ice creams with flakes, Magnums and Cornettos. And I spied bacon sandwiches. There’s tea, coffee and hot chocolate – perfect for a freezing day. You can find out more information about the cafe and see photos here.

Seating and Picnics

Dotted around Richmond Park are wooden park seats and fallen logs making it the ideal spot for a picnic. Fortunately, you can picnic near to your car so no need to lug your flasks and hampers for long distances. On New Year’s Day I see many people having tailgate picnics from the boot of their car.

My amazing and recent discovery is the wonder of the Stanley vacuum flask. I paid a fortune for this pricy British icon. I preheat it with boiling water for 5 minutes and then adding fresh boiling water and pack Yorkshire tea bags and fresh milk with an ice pack and I have perfect, scalding hot tea for the whole day.

For more information on Richmond Park including any seasonal updates see the official Royal Parks website.

We have some other great suggestions for free and nearly free days out. and we hope these practical tips will help you make the most of your day at Richmond Park.

If you have enjoyed this piece you may like our feature on the nearby botanical wonder  Kew Gardens.

REVIEW: The Handmaid’s Tale at the London Coliseum by Maxine Morse, 8 April 22

You would need to be quite disturbed to categorise Poul Ruders’ opera of The Handmaid’s Tale as entertainment but this performance nonetheless keeps the viewer transfixed throughout.

The Handmaid’s Tale ENO The Handmaid’s Tale, 22, Pumeza Matshikiza, Rhian Lois, Kate Lindsey © Catherine Ashmore

Based on the novel by Margaret Atwood, the opera depicts a future police state where women who have been living in sin, or who are in second marriages, are forced to act as surrogates for the childless leaders of the State of Gilead. Women are defined by their fertility and child bearing capabilities. Their emotions and actions are governed by a rule-bound theocracy.

The opera opens with Professor Pieixoto (Camille Cottin) explaining how the USA has been taken over by right-wing fundamentalists who have rolled back the progress and freedoms of women in early 21st century America. The discovery of a handmaid’s diary allows Offred’s (Kate Lindsey) story to be told. Camille Cotton seems lost – a slight, white-suited figure stranded on a podium…really, we want less chat so our dystopian nightmare can begin.

There is no sisterhood, no female fraternity, in Gilead. Aunt Lydia (Emma Bell) leads an indoctrination centre where the handmaids are stripped of everything that makes them human. We witness mental breakdowns, flashbacks and thoughts of escaping until the women enter a docile state and graduate.

The role of the handmaid is to act as a surrogate. Offred’s vocals convey the alarm, sadness and distress of her plight. She is held down by the wife (Avery Amereau) while her husband, The Commander (Robert Hayward) attempts to impregnate her. All erotic touching is strictly forbidden. Any transgressions are punished by the women being sent to work in a brothel, or to hard labour in the Colonies.

Annemarie Woods has designed a barren set encased by NHS hospital grade, green-grey curtains onto which grainy, celluloid films are shown of Offred’s previously happy life with her husband and child. The props of clinical apparatus and educational flip-charts evoke the birth control clinics of the 1960s. The red costumes of the handmaids represent nuns’ habits. Their uniformity makes it hard to distinguish between the opera cast. These are in direct contrast to the blue 1950’s frock of Serena Joy which is straight out of a 1950’s fashion magazine.

The music is scratchy and screechy with discordant percussion pieces punctuated by a few bars of Bach and Amazing Grace. The orchestra, conducted by Joana Carneiro, intentionally creates a background track to the action, rather than obviously supporting the voices. Ruders writes intentionally for the edge of what the performers’ voices can manage…their voices strain at the high notes which serves to underline that the inhabitants of the state of Gilead under continual strain.

Atwood is famed for having said that her novel contains nothing that hasn’t already happened in the world, or isn’t currently happening. Expect to be assaulted by historical and political allusions…the storming of the White House by Trump supporters, the rollback of women’s rights in Afghanistan, the separation of families by gun-toting soldiers which evoke the distressing, present day reality of the Ukrainian conflict.

Annilese Miskimmon (ENO Artistic Director) makes her debut as an opera director for the ENO with this performance. She should be commended for taking on such a challenging and feminist piece of work, although for some of us it left a bitter taste.

Performing The Handmaid’s Tale echoes the reasons why Holocaust education is considered important; to never forget, so we never repeat the mistakes of history. Human love, emotion and the things that make us human need to resist regulation by politics, education and organised religion.


Maxine Morse  wrote this review of The Handmaid’s Tale as part of her opera critics training at the English National Opera. To see other reviews from her training see The Valkyrie, HMS Pinafore, Satyagraha, Cosi Fan Tutte, The Cunning Little Vixen and La Boheme.


 

Così Fan Tutte ENO – REVIEW by Maxine Morse, 10 March 22

Così Fan Tutte ENO feels brilliantly contemporary for an opera that roughly translates into “all women are like that” with its sexual stereotyping and theme of infidelity.  Its success lies in its translation by Jeremy Sams of the Italian libretto into humorous, vernacular English, Tom Pye’s lavish Coney Island fairground sets and the casting of Soraya Mafi as Despina, the motel maid with the common touch.

Così Fan Tutte ENO 22 , Hanna Hipp, Nardus Williams, Soraya Mafi © Lloyd Winters
Così Fan Tutte ENO 22 , Hanna Hipp, Nardus Williams, Soraya Mafi © Lloyd Winters

 

As the strong man, oriental woman, performing dwarfs and other circus ensemble emerge from a wooden casket, we are pitched into PT Barnum’s Greatest Show on Earth. The direction of this revival by Phelim McDermott is slick, well-paced and polished – everything shines from the opera performances to the comic timing, even the kick in the balls from an angry fiancée looks painful.

Two sisters are victims of a cynical wager in which a philosopher and impresario, Don Alfonso (Neal Davies) bets two lovers Guglielmo (Benson Wilson) and Ferrando (Amitai Pati) that their girlfriends won’t stay faithful to them in their absence. A plot is hatched in which the men pretend to go off to fight for their country leaving their girlfriends behind. The men reappear in disguise and successfully woo each other’s partners.

To pull off this trick, Don Alfonso ropes in a motel maid Despina, who is furtively sipping hot chocolate destined for the guests (“they get the chocolate, I get the smell”). In the best British sit com tradition, she stuffs the bribe down her bra and then moves heaven and earth to get the two sisters to break their vows. This involves Despina in adopting different guises including posing as Doctor Magnetico with his vibration machine and arranging a Las Vegas style wedding dressed as a cow girl in a Stetson. Through it all, her singing is as clear as a bell with an East End cockney twang.

The chemistry between Fiordiligi (Nardus Williams) and her sister Dorabella (Hanna Hipp) is obvious. We could be in any young girls’ bedroom. They muse about missing their men and talk of looking for someone young, handsome and rich. Their duets were both conversational and glorious.

Kerem Hasan conducts the music with perfect timing and volume to support the voices and create a seamless and sensational aural performance.

In Act Two, I noticed some interesting changes in the audience…kids in a balcony box waved at the circus performers, press hacks stopped scribbling and the surtitles were ignored as all eyes were on the stage.

Così Fan Tutte  (ENO) places the audience into a Tilt-a-Whirl, gives their cars a good spin and lurches them round bunny clubs, sugared-almond fairgrounds, retro circuses with authentically painted circus hoardings, courtesy of Joby Carter, and then abruptly plunges them into depression era movie motels before taking them up to sublime arias from hot air balloons. We are wildly spinning in countless different directions but instead of becoming green about the gills and throwing up our dinner, we don’t want to get off.


Maxine Morse  wrote this review of Così Fan Tutte as part of her opera critics training at the English National Opera. To see other reviews from her training see The Valkyrie, HMS Pinafore, The Handmaid’s Tale, Satyagraha, The Cunning Little Vixen and La Boheme.


 

REVIEW: La Bohème at the London Coliseum by Maxine Morse, 4 February 22

The opening scene depicts scrounging, work shy flat sharers who are late with their rent and have no money for fuel or food. This society is clearly going to the dogs.

ENO La bohème 2022, Charles Rice, David Junghoon Kim, Sinéad Campbell-Wallace © Genevieve Girling
ENO La bohème 2022, Charles Rice, David Junghoon Kim, Sinéad Campbell-Wallace © Genevieve Girling

Variations of the La Bohème theme are on the inside pages of every popular, contemporary newspaper. Perhaps this explains the enduring appeal of this 1896 Puccini opera. It speaks to the human condition. There are no convoluted highly romanticised plots and subplots or Biblical epics with severed heads on gilded platters here.

Jonathan Miller’s production is a cross between the grey scenes of Lowry’s industrial northern poverty and Renoir’s detailed cameos of Parisienne life. Hats off to Crispin Lord, the revival director for his inclusive casting…Rodolfo (David Junghoon Kim) is a sensitive lover not a Brad Pitt lookalike, Mimi (Sinèad Campbell-Wallace) exudes seamstress-like common sense and is not the poverty-stricken waif so often depicted and Musetta is more sex bomb than harlot.

Isabella Bywater’s staging is magnificent. A gargantuan, murky edifice rotates fairground style from the freezing, spartan Crittall windowed garret to a sumptuous, joyful, bustling Christmas Eve street scene. Children chase the toy seller (Adam Sullivan) and a brass band booms. In the crowded Café Momus, amidst a confusion of toasts, camaraderie and flirtation, our impoverished bohèmians manage to palm Alcindoro (Simon Butteriss) Musetta’s elderly suitor off with their bill.

David Junghoon Kim’s vocal performance hits the highs but his lower range is sometimes drowned out by an over enthusiastic orchestra. Sinèad Campbell-Wallace singing is light, clear and crisp like the winter air. Charles Rice (Marcello), William Thomas (Colline) and Benson Wilson (Schaunard) bring some laddish musical weight to the attic scenes. Louise Alder’s performance of Musetta was fruity and rich, a joy to listen to.

Simon Butteriss who is cast as both Benoît the landlord and Alcindoro the hapless, geriatric suitor, lends a light hearted Fawlty Towers element to the production with his masterly comic timing.

The only jarring note is the dance routine in the attic in Act IV. Surely, we need a spontaneous combustion of raucous abandonment rather than a careful choreographed audience facing jig. Why else would anyone dance in their flat?

I had the pleasure of sitting behind the conductor, Ben Glassberg. He was a joy watch. He felt the music with every hand movement and was visibly transported by it and he did a masterly job in conducting for both the joys and the sadness in the plot.

The audience were visibly transported by this performance as evidenced by the rapturous final applause. We were almost tasting the wine and praying for Spring.


This year I had the pleasure of reviewing another  fine production of La Boheme at Opera Holland Park.


Maxine Morse  wrote this review of La Boheme as part of her opera critics training at the English National Opera. To see other reviews from her training see The Valkyrie, HMS Pinafore, The Handmaid’s Tale, Cosi Fan Tutte, The Cunning Little Vixen, Satyagraha and La Boheme.


 

The Leake Street Tunnel – A Legal Graffiti Wall

The Leake Street Tunnel is a celebration of urban, hip, street culture. Here you will find an ever changing display of the best graffiti art in London alongside a cool theatre and an array of independent bars and restaurants. You can find the graffiti tunnel underneath Waterloo Station.

Leake Street Tunnel
Leake Street Tunnel

The Leake Street Tunnel is Unique

The Leake Street Tunnel is independently owned.  It is one of the only spaces in town where graffiti is not only legal but actively encouraged. The 300m tunnel of street art was started in 2008. Banksy had a street art festival here called “Cans”.

Restrictions on Graffiti Art

Graffiti outside of the authorised area is removed.

Sexist, racist and homophobic art is banned.

Recommended Visit Duration

You should plan to spend  between one and two hours in the tunnel…more if you bring your spray cans with you.

Photographing the Art Work

The art is edgy, colourful and ever changing.  New artists paint over old exhibits meaning that there is always something that you haven’t seen before. Happily, there are no restrictions on taking photographs. So come here with your smart phone and snap away. You can impress your friends, family and instagram followers.

Artists Painting in the Leake Street Tunnel
Artists Painting in the Leake Street Tunnel

Holding an Event

The owners actively encourage not for profit events. Send in an email request. These are usually approved within 24 hours.

Safety in the Leake Street Tunnel

Leave your beer cans at home. There is a written set of rules for the tunnel including a no alcohol or drugs policy.

I have always found artists working in the tunnel as I leave the Vaults theatre at night which makes it safer. Furthermore, local businesses in the tunnel usually have uniformed security on their doors. I have seen the occasional homeless person bedding down for the night.

You may feel more comfortable taking the usual London precautions of going earlier in the day, leaving valuables at home and not talking to “strange” strangers.

The Leake Street Tunnel Entrance
The Leake Street Tunnel Entrance

Finding the Leake Street Tunnel

The first time I tried to find the tunnel, I made the mistake of looking inside the basement of Waterloo Station. Don’t do this!

Waterloo Station has two exits – the main concourse with the main line trains and shops and the tube entrance. Exit via the London Underground tube entrance.

You will see the the round BFI IMAX building on your left as you come out of the tube.

Turn right and walk down until you see the Old Vic theatre ahead. At this crossroads turn right so you are walking towards the back of Waterloo Station.

After a couple of hundred metres you will see the graffiti tunnel on your right. So in other words it is found by turning right, then right, then right.

The official website for the Leake Street Tunnel explains the current rules for painting and contact details if you would like to hold an event.

If you like photographing London scenes you may enjoy this blog post on how to photograph St Paul’s Cathedral.