We sauntered in to the Swan at the Globe late, thirsty and ravenous, after a socially distanced performance of As You Like It which lacked an interval in these Covid times. And within minutes we were ensconced on a velvet sofa sipping Bloody Marys and tucking into the very best of English fayre. Hot tasty, crispy, succulent – all foodie adjectives could be employed here to excess.
Perfect British Cuisine at the Swan at the Globe
The Swan at the Globe has a Modern British Menu – so think Fish and Chips, Shepherds Pie, Scotch Eggs, Sausage Rolls, Welsh Rarebit and Sticky Toffee Pudding…all scrumptious and uniquely English things – the stuff of nursery rhymes and fairy tales.
The Swan at the Globe is moderately priced when compared with the very average meals that you could have in the nearby chain restaurants on London’s Bankside.
The Swan at the Globe bar
Restaurant Setting
There are few places in London that are in such a grand settingoverlooking the Thames and Saint Paul’s and bang next to The Globe and The Tate Modern. The rear terrace overlooks the Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre courtyard with its thatched half-timbered playhouse.
The Swan has a Backdrop of St Paul’s and the Thames
Dress Code
So why am I dressed in sequins? And what does this tell us about the the Swan dress code? I am of the view that you can never be too smart! The Swan at the Globe gets a lot of people coming in from the theatre next door. So my advice is to dress up but leave your tiara, floor length ball gown or a tuxedo at home. And if you are wearing street casual wear, no one will bat an eyelid. It’s hard to feel out of place in this welcoming restaurant.
The Swan at the Globe Drinks Menu
As a “real drinker” and a connoisseur of Bloody Marys, this one was the cat’s whiskers and pyjamas. Nicely and delicately spiced and garnished with an emperor of an olive. It had a real kick to it…no stinting on the vodka.
The cocktail menu is fairly extensive with most mixed drinks falling squarely in the London average of £11 – £14.
Their Bloody Mary is the finest in London
An emperor of an olive tops the Swan’s Bloody Mary
Restaurant Menu
It didn’t sound like the most exciting of choices – fish and chips and shepherds pie but the joy was in their culinary execution.
Many is the time that I have walked past their basement kitchens and seen giant pieces of battered cod waiting to be taken to the dining room and large vats of oil frying chips. And my companions declared that this was perfectly cooked, white, moist and flakey with a crispy batter.
Moist, Flaky White, Juicy Fish. A Swan at the Globe legend.
My shepherds pie would have delighted any shepherd from any Shakespeare play. It was filling and meaty, with a perfectly piped creamed mashed potato topping and the beans were drenched in butter, cooked al dente with a sprinkling of shallots.
Perfect al dente Green Beans
A Shepherd’s Pie fit for a Shakespearian Shepherd
Service
Fantastic…attentive but not too much!
Tears fell from our eyes when we considered the solitary hardships of lockdown, the nights spent on the sofa watching Netflix and the missed dining opportunities. And then we shed a few more tears as we congratulated ourselves on discovering such a comfortable and enveloping venue. I see that we are going to be eating and drinking and theatre going here to excess.
If you enjoyed this post you may also like our review of the Brasserie Zedel in Piccadilly.
To book a visit to the Swan at the Globe Restaurant visit their website.
Welcome to Permission, a fusion of Belle Epoch and Art Deco. Here you can marvel at one of the longest cocktail lists in town and bar snacks which rival that of any 5 star hotel.
Hungry, tired, need to put your feet up? Like champagne but are on a beer budget? This emporium of luxury and glitz can be found in Leicester Square on the first floor of the Hippodrome Casino, hidden at the back of the Penny Bar.
The Decor at Permission
Permission is a newly renovated, gleaming, turquoise lounge of low sofas, mirrors, and sumptuous flower arrangements peppered with silver objet d’art and liveried waiters bearing tea themed cocktails.
Permission is designed by the very talented art direction team of Magic Mike Live which is their sizzling resident dance show.
To the Management of the Hippodrome, please note that I haven’t yet seen Magic Mike Live but I am quite partial to young, cavorting, semi naked men!
Permission has a cosy living room vibe.
A large silver crab shaped bowl filled with citrus fruits dominates the bar.
There is turquoise velvet banquette seating and comfortable club chairs.
A fireplace nook overlooking busy Leicester Square.
Best for First Dates and a Girl’s Night Out
It’s the perfect place for girlie get-togethers, after work drinks, dodgy internet dates where a certain level of anonymity is required and even a pre theatre nibble with your mum. The door staff are particularly obliging to elderly ladies…they helped me with the NHS sign in app, asked me to remove my hat and assisted me up the step before wishing me a pleasant evening!
You don’t need to need to gamble on the roulette or card tables to use the bars or restaurants at the Hippodrome Casino.
Door staff welcome guests to the Hippodrome Casino.
The Drinks Menu
The Boozy Tea Room has a fine collection of spirits.
Don’t be startled by the bottles of wine wearing luggage labels with eye watering prices e.g. £300 that are stored in the fridges dotted around the casino…the house red and white in the Permission are around the £7 a glass mark which is the London average with champagne starting at £9.
On my most recent visit, I had a Pornstar Martini which sported a little hat of half a passion fruit and a shot of prosecco for £9.50. These guys know what they are doing in the cocktail department and this definitely hit the spot.
A frothy Pornstar Martini.
Me enjoying my cocktail
Boozy Tea Room Food Menu has all the Classics
Permission Food Menu
Their menu doesn’t leave you scratching your head in bewilderment. No pretentious foreign terms here… well, “sliders” did fox me but the rest was loud and clear. Think hamburgers, club sandwiches, steak sandwiches, chicken curry and roast salmon fillet with side orders of salad or chips. And it has the hallmark of civilisation – English breakfast served 24 hours a day.
My friend’s chicken curry got the thumbs up.
My steak sandwich with a side serving of chips.
All their menu items are at prices that rival the nearest sandwich chain (£5-12 for mains).
There is an added bonus of 10% off the entire bill if you go downstairs and sign up for a Hippodrome Rewards Card.
Permission Service Gets Top Marks
Great service. They took the order and returned at lightning speed with the drinks and food. The waiting staff came back to check that all was well and then, as if by magic, they resurfaced just as we wanted to pay and leave. Telepathy is always much appreciated!
You can find out more about Permission and the creative inspiration behind it on the Hippodrome Website.
Are you keen to avoid the worst restaurants in London and other food traps? Anyone who sells food in London has to comply with a stringent set of regulations, making it one of the safest cities in the world to eat. But safe and tasty are two different things.
Naming no names, here is a very personal list of restaurants to dodge.
The worst restaurants in London
For every place on my list there will be many people telling me of the exception to the rule. So at the risk of being controversial, I am going to plunge in…
Ultra Cheap Food Chains Top the List of the Worst Restaurants in London.
A high street burger can be cheap but is it memorable?
I have a friend who worked as a science teacher who told me an apocryphal tale that they ran a science experiment on a burger from a famous low cost food chain and they couldn’t find any meat in it. I can’t vouch for this experiment and it doesn’t, on the face of it, sound as if there is much truth in it…but when you think that some of the burgers out there cost £1, it begs the question of how they manage to make a profit.
Why would you come to London and eat at low cost food chains when you could have identical meals in your own home town?
If you are desperate for a burger from a high street chain, I would say that Byron Burgers and Five Guys are a better bet.
Alternatively, for a few pounds more you can have a memorable burger in sumptuous surroundings at the Brasserie Zedel. It’s on the menu as Boeuf Hache and is served as part of their fixed price menu.
Empty Restaurants Indicate a Poor Rating for Food and Service
An empty restaurant at peak times may signify poor quality food or service
London is a busy place where news of a good restaurant gets out fast. In Soho and Fitzrovia you will see queues outside the doors of many places at lunch time.
Empty restaurants with a slightly out-dated decor are always a warning sign to me.
Touts or Cartoon Characters are Signs of an Underperforming Restaurant
Restaurant touts or cartoon characters may indicate an unpopular venue
If the manager is handing out cards outside the restaurant door, or worse still, they have paid for someone in fancy dress to entice me inside – it’s a five siren alarm.
Sandwiches from Corner Shops and Supermarkets May be Made off Premises
Sandwiches at newsagents and corner shops are probably made on an industrial estate
There are two types of London sandwiches; those that are made on the premises and tend to be deep filled, fresh and tasty and those that are made on an out-of-town industrial estate with ingredients that are dipped in preservatives, encased in plastic and delivered by van to a shop or cafe.
They may be edible but are they gourmet? Probably not – so best avoided unless you are desperate.
Alternatively, try Pret where their sandwiches are freshly made on the premises. Or better still find a street market where there will be all sorts of tasty filled wraps, buns and rolls inspired by cuisines from all corners of the world.
Street Vending Carts May Lack Adequate Safe Food Storage
Istay away from hot dog stands, caramelised nut stands etc etc. I am concerned about the quality of the ingredients and the overnight storage of fresh ingredients.
“Traditional Pubs” with Non Chalk Blackboards May Cook Their Food Only in a Microwave or Deep Fat Fryer
Unless eating at a well known gastro pub, the food may be frozen and deep-fried to order
Any pub worth its salt will be heaving with people and the landlord will be run ragged.
If you see a pub that’s fake…think plastic flowers in the window boxes, the words “Traditional Pub” emblazoned in gold on the glass and a blackboard that has a painted sign instead of a real chalk board be suspicious, very suspicious.
Your meal will probably be fine but it is likely to be prepared using frozen ingredients that are deep fried or reheated in a microwave. Not what you want when you are looking for a great experience.
Here is an example of a fish and chip pub dinner. I recently had something like this. I enjoyed it but the cod was definitely a bit thin and dry and the whole thing, from the fish to the chips to the peas, had come out of bags in the deep freeze.
Fish and chips from the freezer
Food Displayed or Cooked at the Entrance of Restaurants is Aimed at Tourists
Food displayed in glass cases, or cooked at the entrance, tends to be aimed at the tourist market
You’ll see these places in Leicester Square, Oxford Circus and Tottenham Court Road…the food is in display cabinets outside, or it is being cooked in the entrance of the store.
You may see pizzas on display or Chinese food being prepared in a wok. And the clientele appears to be tourists or people from out of town.
How to tell the locals from the tourists…locals will tend to be business people in tailored shirts and suiting having a working lunch or young people in fashionable street wear…the tourists are in couples, or groups, speaking their own language and often carrying shopping bags or rucksacks.
These places are aimed at the tourist market. The food will be ok-ish to eat but won’t be memorable.
If you want a Chinese, head to China Town and look for restaurants with a predominantly Chinese clientele. Or find a pizza restaurant that is famed for the quality of its food e.g. Franco Manca which sells sough dough pizza baked on the premises. Pizza Express is also one of the more reliable High Street chains.
The Worst Restaurants in London Often Display Food at Room Temperature
Some of the worst restaurants in London display food at air temperature for extended periods.
In the UK we have strict rules about how long, high risk food, can be sold at room temperature. Bacteria in food can double every few minutes when its left out on display. Best to make sure that your food is either brought to you from a refrigerator, or heated so that it is steaming.
Your Hotel’s Recommendations May be Incentivised
Hotels may be paid a commission for recommending particular restaurants
Hotel receptionists, doormen and concierge services are often paid to give recommendations for specific restaurants.
Of course these suggestions are unlikely to be dire as you are their guest and they will want you to have a good time. However, you will do so much better if you can ask a local person for a restaurant recommendation. Alternatively, look at reviews on YouTube as you will often a get a video tour of the restaurant and the food.
Neon Lighting and Unwelcoming Ambience Indicate a Restaurant to Avoid
Neon lighting and backless stools may indicate that a poor quality restaurant is keen for you to eat and leave
This is a pet peeve of mine…unless it is a 1950s diner, neon lighting strips usually communicate that a venue wants you to buy, eat and leave.
And I could add to this trendy, backless stools.
Unless you are having a fast refuelling stop, I think it is a good idea to choose somewhere with a welcoming decor that encourages you to linger a while.
There are High Risk Foods Even in High Quality Restaurants.
The foods shown below are all very high risk in terms and may cause food poisoning which is the last thing you want, especially if you are on holiday.
Exercise caution if you order them and make sure that their are either steaming hot, properly refrigerated or freshly prepared. If you choose fruit, select bananas or oranges or something that you can peel yourself. Nothing much can go wrong with an unpeeled banana.
Mayonnaise made with raw eggs is a high risk food
Mayonnaise is made from raw eggs and needs to be kept refrigerated especially if it is fresh and without preservatives.
Chicken that hasn’t been properly cooked is a serious cause of concern. This is a common practice in some of the worst restaurants in London.
Chicken needs to be thoroughly cooked to avoid salmonella poisoning and must be either served cold or held hot for a limited period of time.
Boiled eggs are a high risk food.
Boiled eggs are protein rich and need to be kept at room temperature for only a short period e.g. the breakfast buffet or if made into sandwiches, served from a refrigerated display.
Cut fruit can be contaminated by unclean hands from serving and waiting staff
The surface of fruit may be contaminated with bacteria from either soil or people’s hands and should be washed before use.
Salads may not be adequately washed and contain soil and grit
The same is true for salads.
Salami shouldn’t be left at room temperature for a long time
And if I eat anything cold, I make sure that it has come out of a refrigerated display and is within the Use by Date printed on the packaging.
Reheated rice can cause serious food poisoning
Rice needs to be freshly cooked, and not reheated, as it can contain toxins.
Upmarket restaurants may serve unpasteurised cheese but be aware that this is a listeria risk
Unpasteurised cheese runs the risk of listeria and shouldn’t be consumed by children, vulnerable adults or pregnant women.
Undercooked burgers are a sign of a poor quality restaurant
Burgers must never be served pink, or rare, as the mincing process increases the risk of e-coli.
I always make sure that when I’m out that my food is served very hot. Heat kills bacteria.
A Useful Tool to Help You Avoid the Worst Restaurants in London – Scores on the Doors
You may see a hygiene star rating displayed outside a restaurant. This is known as Scores on the Doors and will indicate how the restaurant fared in its last council-run food safety inspection. You can read the safety report by going to this site. A score of 3 stars or below suggests significant failings were found.
As you will see I haven’t named names. On TripAdvisor you will see a ranking of all London restaurants.
If you would like to see an account of the worst ranked restaurant in London, you can read Archie Brydon’s story of the Palace Restaurant. He found a well meaning restauranteur who seems to have been the victim of a smear campaign.
I hope you are able to avoid the worst restaurants in London and may all your choices be safe and tastebud tantalising.
We weren’t in search of the best London dessert. It found us as we were dining at The Wolseley, Piccadilly. Who would have thought that this marbled, monochrome London establishment, famed for its European cuisine, could be home to the most enormously exquisite banana split?
London Dessert at The Wolseley, Piccadilly
We Spotted this London Dessert on an Adjacent Table
Frankly we’d already stuffed our faces. My companion had partaken of the Hungarian Goulash with spaetzl noodles and I had indulged in a medium rare flat iron steak with a buttery bernaise sauce flecked with tarragon, pommes frites and a green salad. We were about to call it a day and finish with a modest macchiato coffee. Then the waiter brought flamboyant ice cream coupes to the next table.
We stopped in our tracks. We put our gossip on hold. We turned to question these young men.
Their faces were beaming as you only do when you know that you have made the perfect menu choice. And no one was beaming more than the man who had ordered the best London dessert, The Wolseley banana split!
So caution was thrown to the wind. Fortunately, The Wolseley menu that we were given did not contain the calories of this banana split dessert confection (which I have since discovered online to be a whopping 1004).
The Wolseley Pared Down London Pudding Menu
Banana split has a bad rap. It seems like a strange choice for a London pudding pared down Wolseley menu.
It conjures up images of synthetic flavoured strawberry, chocolate and vanilla ice creams doused in a sauce that has never seen a chocolate bean and gaudy maraschino cherries sitting on a plainly split slightly un ripe banana…and woolfed down by college students in a kitsch 1950s diner.
The banana split was invented by an optometrist in 1904, David “Doc” Strickler from Pennsylvania who bought a drugstore and charged 10 cents for the creation, twice the price of every other dessert on the menu.
Clearly this snippet of history has obviously given the The Wolseley in Piccadilly the courage to charge £11.95 for this dessert delicacy).
Memorable Chef Inspired Elements
There were many many things that make the Wolseley’s banana split the best London dessert…
It is served in bespoke boat shaped pressed glassware on The Wolseley’s monogrammed china. The starched pristine table cloths and genuine electroplated cutlery look as if they have been in service since the turn of the century.
This London dessert delicacy is carried to the table like a religious icon in a church service and placed on the table with greatest of reverence.
And on to the components of this London dessert…
The perfect banana is crisply caramelised in butter and sugar.
Raspberry sauce nestles in folds of whipped cream in London’s most sumptuous dessert finale.
The finest London ice cream, tastes of nothing but egg yolks, cream and vanilla.
Double cream is whipped, aerosoled and perfectly dispensed in a precise,lacy frill.
Someone in the kitchen has taken fresh raspberries. Then combined them with sugar and strained the resulting syrup to remove the seeds before delicately dribbling it over the cream. Notice how the raspberry puree nestles in the folds of the cream with none of it dripping on to the ice cream below.
Crushed nuts, browned to a perfect pale shade of toastiness are scattered on top of this exquisite creation.
And let us not forget the chocolate sauce…bitter, rich with a just-melted-from-a-bar-of-70%-cocoa-solids taste is served in a small silver plated jug.
A rich chocolate sauce in a silver plated jug accompanies London’s best dessert.
My Suggestion for London Dessert Superlativeness
Such perfection is difficult to improve on. My modest suggestion (if I dare) would be to include a small jug of caramel for those that prefer this to chocolate. It would add a level of Americaness, but why not? Fusion can only be a good thing when it comes to dessert heaven in London.
You can make a reservation at The Wolseley and sample their other delectable desserts by visiting their website here. Or you may want to peruse The Wolseley menu. But whatever you do make sure that you sample this spectacular London dessert.
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Me enjoying my cocktail
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