Charles Dickens Museum Review

 

Charles Dickens Museum

On a recent visit to the Charles Dickens Museum London, I discovered that Charles Dickens was a bit of a rake and dandy and far more eccentric than my early readings had given him credit for.  

In this article we give you insights into the key museum exhibits accompanied by original photographs and explain how  to obtain Charles Dickens Museum tickets.

I Visited the Charles Dickens Museum with Fear and Trepidation

Charles Dickens was a prominent feature of my school days, huge dusty tomes featuring characters of a bygone era. Indelibly etched in my young mind was Scrooge in all his miserly unpleasantness and Oliver Twist in the workhouse begging for more gruel. For every rotund, jolly character there would be a sea of filthy, ragged, bare-foot wretches teetering on the brink of starvation. It was with some trepidation therefore that I went to the the rented home of Charles Dickens, the lease of which was purchased with his advance from Pickwick Papers.

Wretched Characters illustrated in Charles Dickens' Novels
Wretched Characters illustrated in Charles Dickens’ Novels

Charles Dickens got into his characters by acting them out in his bedroom mirror… the very mirror that is in his upstairs bedroom.

48 Doughty Street is an Affluent but Ordinary London Town House

In my mind’s eye, I was expecting the Charles Dickens Museum to contain sumptuous splendour, a house bedecked with Christmas decorations shining like jewels and every candle in Christendom lit to illuminate gilded paintings and antique mahogany furniture. Of course, this was erroneous and ridiculous, Charles Dickens was just starting out in his literary career at the time of his life here and this house was reminiscent of the many Georgian and Victorian houses that line the residential areas of the centre of town.

Children’s Bedrooms Pay Homage to Debtors Prison

I climbed the stairs to the top of the museum, to the children’s bedrooms. A pair of bleak rooms with bare wooden floors and simple cots with a room divider of iron bars – the bars of a debtors’ prison. These bars were the embodiment of Charles Dickens’s own lost childhood when his father was in prison in Marchelsea with his wife and young child and the 12 year old Charles was sent to board with an impoverished woman and work pasting labels onto pots in a blacking factory.

The Children's Bedrooms in the attic of the Charles Dickens Museum.
The Children’s Bedrooms in the attic of the Charles Dickens Museum.

Rehearsing Characters in the Master Bedroom

With a shudder, I went down a flight of stairs and found myself in Charles Dickens’ bedroom overlooking the genteel Bloomsbury street. Dominating the room was a four poster bed with its burgundy coverlet, a slipper bath beside the fireplace and his wife’s turquoise serpent engagement ring on the dressing table.

The bedroom overlooking 48 Doughty Street
The bedroom overlooking 48 Doughty Street

Imagine Charles Dickens taking a bath In front of the fire. The bath tub in the main bedroom of the Charles Dickens Museum.
Imagine Charles Dickens taking a bath In front of the fire. The bath tub in the main bedroom of the Charles Dickens Museum.

In the corner of the room was a large pedestaled mirror sitting aloft a dressing table – it was this very mirror that he had used to “rehearse his characters” I imagined him making grotesque faces in the mirror and adopting gasping, breathy tones and childish high pitched squeals as he tested out each character’s veracity in that very mirror.

Ghosts in the Guest Room

I walked to the next room, smaller and with a sunny sense of calm, no ghosts in sight and nothing untoward…until the room attendant told me that it was in this very bed that his wife’s 17 year old sister had died in Charles Dickens’ arms, the trauma of which dogged him and for years to come.

The Guest Room where Charles Dickens' sister in law died in his arms
The Guest Room where Charles Dickens’ sister in law died in his arms

Charles Dickens, the Dandy

I skated past the dressing room with its display of a suited mannequin and a wash stand. A room where he would dress each morning and don a fashionable tartan waistcoat. Then he would spend his afternoons strolling around town meeting friends, book publishers, or otherwise attending to his many philanthropic activities (before going to bed with his hair in curlers). What a dandy!

Charles Dickens the Dandy, His only surviving suit is found in the dressing room next to the master bedroom of the museum
Charles Dickens the Dandy, His only surviving suit is found in the dressing room next to the master bedroom of the museum

Entertaining the Elite in the Salon

Maybe I would find the jolly family atmosphere that had so far eluded me in the family salon. The living room was the theatrical stage for his early talents with the makeshift lectern that he used when reciting stories to friends. I could see Charles Dickens’ guests marvelling over the twists and turns in his plots, gasping in horror at the sheer wickedness of the bosses and overlords.

The Salon where Charles Dickens read from a lectern to entertain his guests.
The Salon where Charles Dickens read from a lectern to entertain his guests.

 


You may also enjoy our post on another great man Winston Churchill and the Churchill War Rooms. And if you like historical museums read our review on the Museum of London Docklands.


 

Charles Dickens Study – Do Not Disturb

In the next room ,was the book-lined study where Charles Dickens had written his early works in a quill pen and ink with a spidery hand…tiny writing with numerous scratches and addendum. He worked in this room for 4 hours each morning and woe betide anyone who disturbed him.

Charles Dickens' large mahogany desk. A prized antique of the museum.
Charles Dickens’ large mahogany desk. A prized antique of the museum.

Charles Dickens' spidery handwriting in blue ink.
Charles Dickens’ spidery handwriting in blue ink.

Here was a conundrum. Charles Dickens was a man eager for fame, with little formal education yet he wanted to be part of learned society. This house was was sufficiently impressive to be a passport to his place in the world. And it was here, in his first family home, that he and his wife Catherine began to make their mark, inviting interesting people such as the author Elizabeth Gaskell and the historian Thomas Carlyle to dinner.

The Christmas meal in all its splendour
The Christmas meal in all its splendour

The Heart of the Home in the Basement Kitchen

I felt a longing for the warm embrace of a nearby cafe and a hot drink. I arrived on the ground floor of the Dickens’ residence and was about to leave the Charles Dickens Museum when I saw an illuminated arrow pointing to the basement…was there more? I nearly didn’t go. I’m at an age when I think twice about stairs.

And there it was, in its warmth and splendour, the bosom of the family, a kitchen, a pantry, a scullery and a wine cave – filled with plaster of Paris replicas of fruits, vegetables, roasting meats, jelly, cakes, laundry all on scrubbed work tops curved through chopping and overuse…the heart of 48 Doughty Street. A place setting was laid on the kitchen table for Charles Dickens and as I left I could imagine him eating his lunch with the house keeper bustling around him serving a beef and oyster pie and mash with gravy, the resident hedgehog feeding off the crumbs and insects afoot and his chattering children being ushered upstairs by the nursery maid so he could eat in peace.

The Christmas meal in all its splendour
The Christmas meal in all its splendour

It looks as if the kitchen maids are getting ready to make pastry. Pies were a big thing in Victorian England.
It looks as if the kitchen maids are getting ready to make pastry. Pies were a big thing in Victorian England.

The Cold Room where the housekeeper made desserts and kept dairy cool.
The Cold Room where the housekeeper made desserts and kept dairy cool.

The Bleak Laundry Room in the Rear Basement
The Bleak Laundry Room in the Rear Basement

Charles Dickens Museum Accessibility

There is a lift that covers four of the five floors of the Charles Dickens Museum including the basement.

Charles Dickens Museum London Tickets and Admission Prices

Adult: £12.50
Concessions (Students, Seniors and Disabled Visitors): £10.50
Child 6-16 years: £7.50
Children under 6 years: Free

Prices updated September 2023.

You can obtain discounts for museum entry by using the following schemes:

These are welcome on a walk-in basis.

Charles Dickens Museum London Address

48 Doughty Street, London, WC1N 2LX

Charles Dickens Museum London Website

https://dickensmuseum.com

Hats off to the curators of the Charles Dickens Museum who have given us a vivid insight into the home life of one of our most revered authors.

 

The Museum of London Docklands – A Gory and Gloomy Past

The Museum of London Docklands

 

The Museum of London Docklands in Canary Wharf takes us on a gory and gloomy voyage through hard manual labour, executions and slavery of this major London port. Housed in the Grade II listed No 1 warehouse of the West India Docks the museum shows life on the docks at the pinnacle of their importance.

 

Time to Visit the Museum of London Docklands

Museum of London Docklands Exterior
Museum of London Docklands Exterior

I have very fond recollections of the London Museum, Barbican with its ornate Art Deco Selfridge’s lift doors, the charming video of waitresses serving afternoon tea at a Lyons Corner House and the exhibits of various cabs and carriages that plied their trade in London’s West End. Sadly, the London Museum, Barbican is temporarily closed as it plans its relocation to a more central location in 2026.

I decided it was now time to head East to explore the Museum of London Docklands. Would it be up to snuff?

 

Our Journey of Gloom and Despair Begins in the Dockland’s Warehouse

The route through the museum galleries starts on the third floor. As the lift doors ping, we glimpse a darkened gallery of ropes, weighing scales, pulleys and trolleys operated by overworked dockers.

Trolleys and pulleys used by the London dockers
Trolleys and pulleys used by the London dockers

 

Dock Inspectors and Managers Ensured that All Goods Were Measured, Sampled, Weighed and Inspected.
Dock Inspectors and Managers Ensured that all Goods Were Measured, Sampled, Weighed and Inspected.

And on to more doom of fires, prostitutes, ram-shackled, housing and irate dock managers.

 

The Museum of London’s Executions Exhibits

Can we come up for air yet?

 

Nope!

 

Our dear curators have decided that we need a full immersion experience of executions and hangings with a liberal spattering of torture instruments.

You couldn’t make this up.

Torture Instruments and Exhibits
Torture Instruments and Exhibits

 

Children these days are monsters and I am sure they are thrilled to see these horrors. I saw no signs of modern parents shielding their little darlings’ eyes.

 

Sailor’s Town With Its Lodging Houses, Dock Offices and Shops

There was a temporary respite with a stunning alleyway of Victorian era shops, boarding houses and offices. Pure Disney.

A Stationers
A Dock Office
A General Hardware Store
Lodgings for Sailors

If you are enjoying this blog post on the Museum of London Docklands you may also like to read our reviews of the Charles Dickens Museum and the Churchill War Rooms.


 

The Museum of London Docklands Stomach Churning Slavery Exhibition

Shocking images of tortured slaves
Shocking Images of Tortured Slaves

 

Onwards and downwards…to the stomach-churning London, Sugar & Slavery exhibition replete with whips, images of tortured semi naked women hanging from trees and metal restraints used to prevent slaves escaping.

Modern Art as a Response to the London Museum Docklands Slavery Permanent Exhibition
Modern Art as a Response to the London Museum Docklands Slavery Permanent Exhibition

 

If the purpose of museums is to elicit an emotional reaction this was highly successful. I was holding back the tears.

 

A Talk on the Victorian Wine Trade is a Merciful Respite

Thankfully, I was rescued by an announcement of an imminent talk on the Victorian wine trade. A talk! They should provide wine dispensers at regular intervals through their gory exhibits.

A Coopers' Workshop with Wine Barrel Repair Instruments
A Coopers’ Workshop with Wine Barrel Repair Instruments
A Bottling Station Where the Wine is Corked and Labelled
A Bottling Station Where the Wine is Corked and Labelled

Our lecture on bottling, corking and labelling wines…historical taxation and wine consumption statistics all championed by one William Gladstone was riveting.

 

I thought of limping to the Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese which was rebuilt in 1667 but alas too far, so I limped towards the Exit in search of nearer victuals.

A Beacon of Quality Souvenirs in the London Museum Docklands Shop

Suffragette Christmas Ornaments in the Museum of London Shop
Suffragette Christmas Ornaments in the Museum of London Shop

 

The bright spot in the Museum of London Docklands…the part that makes your spirits soar and your heart sing is the museum shop near the Exit.

 

This is the very place for London souvenirs that are the pinnacle of good taste. There are purple and green stuffed Women Suffragettes to adorn your Christmas tree…

 

Quality, embroidered hoodies emblazoned with the London Underground logo and lined in a cotton fabric depicting the tube map.

A Quality London Underground hoodie
A Quality London Underground hoodie

Their book department on all matters London would have you browsing for hours.

My Bargain Book With Fabulous Photography
My Bargain Book With Fabulous Photography

My find was a book on London at Night remaindered at £2 from a previous Museum of London Docklands exhibition. London during the blitz, the seedy side of London’s Soho and Londoners on the night bus kept me entertained on the tube journey home.

 

Recovering from the Museum of London Docklands at Browns

Browns Restaurant Exterior
Browns Restaurant Exterior

Browns West India Quay in the first dock warehouse has a lunch menu at £17.95 served until 5pm. Chain restaurants have a bad rap but I was very happy with my smoked duck starter accompanied by crisp croutons, fresh watercress with a delicate orange dressing.

Smoked Duck Starter at Browns near the Museum of London Docklands
Smoked Duck Starter at Browns near the Museum of London Docklands

The main course steak was a perfect medium rare and they were happy to switch out the chips for broccoli.

Steak and Broccoli (instead of chips) from the Lunch Menu of Browns near the Museum of London Docklands
Steak and Broccoli (instead of chips) from the lunch menu of Browns near the Museum of London Docklands

Friendly and unobtrusive service made it the perfect place to recover from a trip to the Museum of London Docklands.

Pass the smelling salts.

 

Getting to the Museum of London Docklands

The museum is a short walk from the exit of the Canary Wharf Elizabeth line.  Follow the signs for the London Museum. As you leave the tube you will see a row of dock warehouses and the museum is in the last building.

You can also take the DLR to West India Quay,

Buses D3, D7, D8, 277, D6 15, 115, 135 stop near the museum.

 

Museum of London Docklands Tickets

You are encouraged to make a voluntary contribution but entry to the museum is free. There is no need to prebook your ticket.

The museum charges for entry to some of its temporary exhibitions. More information is available on its website.

 

Museum of London Docklands Opening Times

The museum is open from Monday to Sunday 10am to 5pm.

 

Museum of London Docklands Parking

There is a public car park behind the Museum of London Docklands on Hertsmere Road.

 

 

 

Marylebone on a Budget – Shopping and Sight Seeing Paradise

Marylebone on a Budget

Marylebone on a budget? It can be done! Explore this little known area sandwiched between Marble Arch and Baker’s Street with a unique village atmosphere, many independent shops, a church that rivals some cathedrals and a sumptuously ornate, free museum. Here is a nuts and bolts guide on how you can have a fabulous day in Marylebone on the cheap.
Each month I show you how to plan a budget day out in an interesting part of London, I throw in some cheap eats, shopping and culture and help you do it for less than £15. If you are travelling on a shoestring budget read on…

Rules for the Marylebone on a Budget, London for £15 challenge

I don’t include tube travel …the over 60s with a London address have a Oyster 60+ card which gives them free travel on the London Underground and buses. Many working Londoners are using Oyster cards with capped daily spends and and most tourists have a prepaid Oyster card.
And I don’t include memberships. If you are a Londoner on a low budget, I advise you to stock up on every subscription and membership that you can lay your hands on…just make sure that they are for venues that you will actually go to several times in the course of the year.

Why Marylebone High Street?

Marylebone is probably the only place that I can think of in the centre of London that has a village feel with markets, charity shops, churches and museums. It has a great foodie vibe with a handful of artisan food shops with authentic produce…no E numbers or factory produce here. What appeals to me is the sheer variety of sights and activities all with the feel of London a hundred years ago.

Moxton Street – a Foodie Heaven off Marylebone High Street

Moxton Street is the epicentre of foodie heaven with some surprising budget finds. At the weekends there is a food market at the end of the road where locals buy their produce and they then stop off at La Fromagerie to recover from their exertions and catch up with friends. Bill Nighy is often spotted in the restaurant Aubaine opposite.

Ginger Pig

The Ginger Pig is renowned for offering a roast lunch which is costed by weight…pork, stuffing, gravy…roasted vegetables with minty, lemony seasonings and gravy. There are also pies worthy of any Charles Dickens novel…hot sausage rolls, Cornish pasties etc. You can easily pick up allow cost takeaway lunch here for £5-£8.
The Butchery section of Marylebone's famous Ginger Pig.
The Butchery section of Marylebone’s famous Ginger Pig.
A good selection of high quality low priced cold meat pies
A good selection of high quality low priced cold meat pies
Great value sausage rolls. Choose the hot ones.
Great value sausage rolls. Choose the hot ones.
Roast pork with vegetables and salad priced by weight. Infinitely more delicious than the photograph.
Roast pork with vegetables and salad priced by weight. Infinitely more delicious than the photograph.

La Fromagerie

And then head next door to La Fromagerie which prides itself on sourcing its ingredients directly from top artisanal producers in the UK and Europe.Their food is fresh and beautifully presented. At the rear of the shop are tables dedicated to people sampling cheese boards and wine and there is a cafe with a small kitchen menu that includes the very popular Portuguese Sardines on toasted sough dough with caper berries and Amalfi lemon at £11.50…but as we are on a shoestring budget, I recommend sticking with the picnic idea from the Ginger Pig. Or to hell with it…blow your budget on a Yorkshire Salt Beef Sandwich with homemade slaw at £12 and focus on free activities for the rest of the day!
Whole Cheeses in the Window of La Fromagerie in Marylebone.
Whole Cheeses in the Window of La Fromagerie in Marylebone.
Beautiful Food Displays at La Fromagerie.
Beautiful Food Displays at La Fromagerie.
Go for the Carrot Cake a bargain at £3.20
Go for the Carrot Cake a bargain at £3.20
You can return to La Fromagerie for afternoon tea. They have home made cakes with deep buttery icing that they serve in gargantuan slices…enough for two people. Their cakes are are really good value at £3-£4 a slice, approximately.

If you are enjoying this post on shopping and sightseeing in Marylebone on a budget you may also like to read  20 Free Things to do in London (or Nearly Free) That You’ll Love.

Marylebone High Street

Pret

After that culinary overload you need to rest, so off to Pret. For frequent low budget adventurers I recommend the Pret Subscription as it allows you to have a free drink every 30 minutes, up to 5 times a day, for £30 a month and 10% off the food menu. Get a free barista coffee, or a cup of British Breakfast tea and leave the tea bag in to steep to get the full malty caffeine hit. I usually park myself on one of their outside tables and eat my picnic there. I know that this is frowned on but no one has said anything yet!

Charity Shops

The adjacent residential houses in Marylebone are all worth millions. They are where the super rich live. So it should come as no surprise that the charity shops on Marylebone High Street are choc full of discarded designer clothes, many unworn and still tagged from Harrods and Harvey Nichols.
Unlike the London suburbs. where you can pick up a piece of bargain second hand clothing for a couple of quid, these charity shop managers know how to price but you’d still be paying a fraction of the cost new.
Even if you don’t buy anything in the charity shops it is fun to look.
Found in a Marylebone charity shop. Is this a bargain? A £150 Pucci silk scarf.
Found in a Marylebone charity shop. Is this a bargain? A £150 Pucci silk scarf.

Daunt Books

Welcome to Daunt Books which is probably the most photographed book store in London – an independent bookseller with an original Edwardian interior featuring a two storey gallery which contributes to its olde world charms.
This is the place where celebrities come to do their book signings, so be sure to check out their Events page. Boris Johnson was photographed here recently.
Daunt Books exterior on Marylebone High Street
Daunt Books exterior on Marylebone High Street.
Gallery at Daunt Books
Gallery at Daunt Books
There is a huge selection of London books including this one on London for free.
There is a huge selection of London books including this one on London for free.

St James’s Church a Marylebone Church with a Beautiful Gothic Interior

St James’s Church in Spanish Place is not on the tourist circuit but it has an interior that would rival that of many a famous European cathedral. It’s in an early Gothic style. There has been a church in this site for centuries and the current church opened in 1890. There are beautiful paintings, statues and brasses. The church does a lot of work for the homeless. There is a daily mass. The church is free to visit and is a must for your Marylebone on a budget day out – you can make a small donation in the boxes provided.
St James's church exterior in Marylebone with its flying buttress
St James’s church exterior in Marylebone with its flying buttress
Gothic revival interior.
Gothic revival interior.
Polished brass tomb covering.
Polished brass tomb covering.
Altar frieze.
Altar frieze.

Wallace Collection is Marylebone’s Glitzy Glamorous Free Museum

The Wallace Collection is the jewel of Marylebone – a gilded, glitzy, glamorous museum in Manchester Square. It is stuffed with objet d’art, hand carved furniture, armoury and marble statues. And best of all it is free to visit but a small donation is encouraged.
Visit Marylebone's free museum and see this amazing ornate fireplace offset by red flock wallpaper.
Visit Marylebone’s free museum and see this amazing ornate fireplace offset by red flock wallpaper.
Frans Hals The Laughing Cavalier
Frans Hals The Laughing Cavalier
The grand marble staircase with gilded balustrade and burgundy carpet.
The grand marble staircase with gilded balustrade and burgundy carpet.

Are you thinking of a day out away from London? We have a fabulous post on a day trip to Lewes (East Sussex) and its surrounding villages.


Wallace Collection Museum Shop

The Wallace Collection museum shop has things that you might actually want in your home which makes it a rare find in the world of souvenir type shops and it is not too pricy.
Stylish dressing gowns many with London maps or typography.
Stylish dressing gowns many with London maps or typography.
For those looking for a tasteful apron depicting a naked man.
For those looking for a tasteful apron depicting a naked man.
Entry to exhibitions is currently £14 but you can buy annual membership for the Wallace Collection that would give you free entry to exhibitions for a year for £45 (single adult membership 2023). If you have a National Arts Club Fund membership you can gain admission at a 50% discount for £7. And of course, if you are on a tight budget and without the necessary memberships, there’s plenty to see in the free permanent galleries.

Harley Street and Selfridges

I ended my day with a walk down Harley Street gazing at the practitioners’ plaques and window boxes and did a bit of browsing in Selfridges.

Instead of heading south towards Oxford Street you could extend your day by going north towards Baker’s Street and visiting the free Queen Mary’s Rose Garden in Regents Park. We have a blog post entitled Queen Mary’s Rose Garden – A Sublime Floral Display.


Total Spend for my Marylebone on a Budget Day Out

My low cost day in Marylebone was only £3.20! I only spent money on the cake in La Fromagerie. I was gifted a few food samples as part of my blog research which kept me going.
If you had a picnic lunch from the Ginger Pig or one of the many cafes in Marylebone High Street, used your Pret subscription and focussed on free entry to the church and the Wallace Collection you could have a fab day out for well under £15.
There’s far more to see in Marylebone on a budget, so please subscribe so you don’t miss another London for £15 blog post in the area.

Filthy Lucre – The Whistler Peacock Room Spat

 

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Filthy Lucre is a free immersive installation which was on the ground floor of the V&A and tells the story of the Whistler Peacock Room.  This turquoise and gold dining room that shines like a jewel box and is adorned with oriental ceramics was the subject of a nasty and bitter spat. 

How the Whistler Peacock Room Argument Started

How would you feel if while you were away on business, you hired a decorator to paint your dining room and then you returned to a bill of £200,000? Mightily hacked off I suspect!

And then let’s imagine that you regained your composure, told the decorator to stop work and offered to pay him half the fee, but he then crept back into your house and painted cartoons on your wall of warring peacocks. A thinly veiled insult and admonishment of your parsimoniousness.

This story is the inspiration behind the Filthy Lucre exhibition at the V&A.

It’s hard to believe that there can be any debate about who is in the right of over this. It’s a commonly held view that the man who pays the piper calls the tune. But this is exactly what happened when Frederick Leyland hired James Abott McNeill Whistler to paint a room in his house in Kensington.

A display of oriental ceramics
A display of oriental ceramics

Leyland Consults a Talented but Little Known Artist

Frederick Leyland had purchased a Whistler painting which had pride of place in his dining room. At the time, Whistler was a largely unknown artist whose main claim to fame was a rather dour portrait of his mother. So when Leyland wanted to redesign the interior of his dining room in Kensington to house his collection of oriental porcelain, he felt safe in consulting the artist for his opinion on the colour scheme, without fearing a massive bill.

Leyland Gives His Design Team a Free Reign

Frederick Leyland, a successful business man, was working in Liverpool at the time and unfortunately, his project manager, Thomas Jeckyll, had became sick. This gave Whistler a free reign to do as he pleased. And this he did. He got more and more carried away with murals and embellishments and as the project progressed, he had new and better ideas which would bump up the time and the cost, until the room looked like a gleaming Aladdin’s cave.

Well, you know, I just painted on. I went on—without design or sketch—putting in every touch with such freedom … And the harmony in blue and gold developing, you know, I forgot everything in my joy of it.”

Distorted gilded shelving.
Distorted gilded shelving.

Whistler got so carried away he even painted over a 16th Century Cordoba leather wall panel that had been owned by Catherine of Aragon for which Leyland had paid £1000.

Whistler was ecstatic with the creation of the room and even wrote to Leyland telling him of the delightful surprise that would be awaiting him on his return.

Leyland Receives an Extortionate Bill

Unfortunately, the true surprise was the bill (in today’s money) for £200,000!

Leyland was incandescent with rage (probably seething more at his own stupidity for not agreeing the fee, at the outset and in black and white). Leyland offered Whistler half of this extortionate bill but instead of being pleased, Whistler regarded it as an insult to his artistic talents.

A broken ceramic vase
A broken ceramic vase

The Spat Between Artist and Patron Becomes Newspaper Gossip

The society pages of the newspapers loved the spat and reported with glee at the ongoing state of warfare between both parties.

The exhibition title Filthy Lucre reflects the bitter dispute over Leyland’s non payment of Whistler’s extortionate fee.

Whistler Gets His Revenge

Whistler in his fury and probably spurred on by the notoriety of the matter, re-entered his client’s house and delivered his final blow – a mural of two sparring peacocks on the wall – one represented Leyland adorned in gold coins, with a nasty twisted face, and the other Whistler, who was fighting for his rights. Filthy lucre indeed.

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Who is to Blame in the Filthy Lucre – Whistler Peacock Room Spat?

One could say that Whistler was naive in accepting an interior design commission without agreeing the brief in writing but I think that the blame lies elsewhere. Frederick Leyland had underestimated the laziness and self serving avarice of Whistler who had become accustomed to lounging about cafes and living off his friends. In fact, in his youth he had freeloaded off a wealthy Baltimore friend Tom Winnans and used cash gifts from him to go to Paris for art training. And in Paris he met another friend, George Lucas who also financed his lifestyle.

Whistler was a man who lived his life permanently in debt and with considerable expensive vices like excessive drinking and smoking and used people for his own ends.

He had met his match with Frederick Leyland, who was not going to be taken for a ride, even if it meant that he suffered ridicule and was the brunt of society gossip…and good for him!

The V&A Filthy Lucre Installation

Darren Waterston has ingeniously reimagined the Whistler Peacock Room and added all sorts of twisted, distorted and broken features which embody the soured relationship between the two protagonists of this sorry tale. In the background, there is an eerie sound track of gossiping and torment.

I am not sure what Darren Waterstone’s budget was for Filthy Lucre but I am assuming that it was considerably less than what Whistler was trying to charge the hapless Frederick Leyland.


As you clearly like history, you may want to try a completely different kind of museum Take a look at our post on the Churchill War Rooms.


Where is the Whistler Peacock Room Now?

So what happened to the Whistler Peacock Room? The room is now revered as a fine example of Anglo-Japanese Style. It was moved lock, stock and smoking barrel to the Freer Sackler Gallery at the Smithsonian Institution in the Washington D.C.


We took photographs of the stunning V&A architecture during the pandemic when the museum was nearly empty. Please check it out.


Find Out More About the Filthy Lucre Exhibition

The Filthy Lucre – Whistler Peacock Room installation is now closed but you can find out more about it on the the V&A website.

Photographing the V&A During the Pandemic

 

v&a

The V&A is usually bustling and teeming with people which makes it hard to photograph. In-between the second and third lockdowns I managed to take some stunning photographs of the museum without the trampling hoards spoiling every shot.

Enjoying the Solitary Splendour of the V&A

I enjoyed the solitary splendour of this usually ‘packed to the gunwales’ museum. I suddenly felt important, a welcomed VIP on a visit, treated with polite and amused deference by the reception committee and the room attendants of the Victoria and Albert Museum..

The V&A is a Museum Showcasing Art and Design

The v&a was established exactly 100 years before my birth in 1857. Its full name is the Victoria and Albert Museum but Queen Victoria wanted to name it the Albert Museum. The museum’s focus is on art and design. All its exhibitions are sold out blockbusters. My friends brag when they have managed to get a ticket and boast of their intentions to see future shows.

Beginning My Visit in the Courtyard Cafe

My first stop was the v&a ground floor, Benugo cafe in the courtyard sitting under grey skies, sipping tea, nibbling lemon and poppy seed cake and surrounded by exquisite architecture.

Exhibition Road Entrance
The v&a Courtyard Facade
V&A: Oval pool with water jets

I then went for a leisurely amble round the deserted galleries, engaging staff in amiable conversation about their personal story, how the virus was impacting them and our love of London culture.

I didn’t stop to read the exhibit descriptions as I was so mesmerised by the sheer emptiness of this vast museum which is on a 12 acre site.

Photographs of the Empty Museum

I then gathered speed to photograph as much of it as possible. I went up and down staircases, in and out of the lift and walked and walked and walked.

V&A: Green Plaster Court
V&A: Pink Plaster court
V&A: Religious Artefacts
V&A: Religious Statues
V&A: Stairwell
An empty corridor in the v&a

 


We visited the Filthy Lucre – The Whistler Peacock Room exhibition at the V&A which explains a bitter feud between an artist and his patron. You may enjoy learning about the dispute and seeing photos of the exhibition.


Most of our museums are free to visit. You may be interested in our other suggestions for free and cheap things to do in London.

I have spent my whole life at the v&a, my earliest childhood memories are enshrined here and this is a day of emptiness that will be impossible to forget.