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October 1, 2023October 3, 2023

Budget London Red Bus Tour using Public Transport

Looking for a London Red Bus Tour and don’t want to pay through the nose for an overpriced tour? Have you thought of seeing London on a public bus?

A one day bus pass for an adult costs £5.25 and you can hop on and hop off all day long. Some bus routes are better than others for touring London. I recommend numbers 9, 11 and 75.

Let’s start our series of budget London red bus tours with the number 9 route which passes iconic London sights like Kensington Palace, the Royal Albert Hall, Harrods, Hyde Park, Buckingham Palace, Piccadilly Circus, Trafalgar Square and Covent Garden.

Photo credit: It’s No Game

Itinerary for the Number 9 London Red Bus Tour

The number 9 bus route can be seen on the Transport for London website. We are going to concentrate on the section from Kensington Palace to Covent Garden

Buses in central London leave every few minutes so there’s no need to get hung up on bus arrival and departure times.

You can get off the bus whenever you want and then simply go back to the same bus stop when you are ready to resume your journey.

The best seats for this London Red Bus Tour are the top of the double decker at the front…otherwise choose a window seat with uninterrupted views.

1. Kensington Palace

Kensington Palace

Obviously, you’d be mad to miss Kensington Palace . It was the birthplace of Queen Victoria and continues to be home to Royalty including Prince William and Princess Catherine. When Prince Harry and Meghan Markle were courting they had a cottage in the grounds.

The state rooms are open to the general public. Kensington Palace’s forte lies in its display of court jewellery and costumes. There are beautiful clothing displays including Princess Diana’s much photographed dresses.

The controversial Princess Diana sculpture is the Sunken Garden which you can visit free of charge. You decide…does it do her justice?

The scones and cream in the cafe are particularly good and there is a nice outside courtyard area in which to enjoy them.

Kensington Palace: The King's Staircase — Kensington Palace: The King’s Staircase

Now its time to begin your budget London red bus tour adventure…board the Number 9 bus at Kensington Palace.

2. The Royal Albert Hall

The Royal Albert Hall

Our London Red Bus Tour goes past the Royal Albert Hall which is a famous concert space known for the annual classical music festival the Proms.

The Prince Albert Memorial

The Royal Albert Memorial. Photo by Karen Roe

Facing the Royal Albert Hall, is the Prince Albert Memorial which Queen Victoria commissioned in memory of her husband Prince Albert with whom she had nine children. It’s our equivalent of the Taj Mahal; a tribute to enduring love.

The Royal Music College

Behind the Royal Albert Hall you will find the Royal Music College with its exciting programme of low cost music recitals. You can find out about their current programme here.

3. Knightsbridge Station

Harrods

Our third stop is Knightsbridge where you will find the ultra exclusive Harrods department store. Nestled inside is a shopping arcade of high-end brands, luxury designer handbags and a jaw dropping food hall.

Harrods food hall is just the place to pick up a sandwich, sausage roll, pork pie, quiche or any other portable delight to enjoy on your London red bus tour.

Harvey Nichols

Equally luxurious is the nearby Harvey Nichols department store with its focus on fashion and premium makeup.

Return to the bus stop to continue your budget London red bus tour as we are now going to chill out in London’s best known park.

4. Hyde Park Corner Station

Hyde Park

Hyde Park is the largest London Royal park. It has two outdoor cafes overlooking a man-made lake and is dotted with hire by the hour deckchairs.

The more energetic may enjoy a boating trip or an outdoor swim.

Hyde Park is just the place to decompress. Take a stroll through the Rose Garden or have an ice cream in the Italianate garden.

The Rose Garden at Hyde Park Corner. Photo by Kotomi Creations

Relaxing in Hyde Park. Photo by Duncan Cumming

Get back on the bus as our next stop will involve art, more royal palaces and afternoon teas.

5. Green Park

Park Lane

The bus crosses the end of Park Lane, home to luxury 5 star hotels including the Dorchester, the Four Seasons and the London Hilton. Which has the most luxurious foyer? You decide.

The Wellington Arch and Green Park

On the right, you will see the Wellington Arch, Green Park and the walls of Buckingham Palace.

Buckingham Palace

You can get off the bus here for Buckingham Palace which is a 10 minute walk through Green Park.

The Ritz

Look out for the world famous Ritz Hotel which has hosted celebrities and royalty for decades. Afternoon Tea is a spectacular affair but it will be necessary to book well in advance and adhere to their strict dress code.

We have a useful blog post on how to have a day out at Buckingham Palace and the Ritz. We include exploring the St James’s area.

The Wolseley

You are now on my favourite street, Piccadilly. It has the Wolseley with its beautiful monochrome interior and one of the best afternoon teas in London (a bargain compared with the adjacent Ritz).

It is almost worth visiting the Wolseley just to eat their banana split.

The Royal Academy

On the left you will see the Royal Academy which is home to the celebrated Summer Exhibition. Any artist can submit a piece of work for consideration…you will see the most bizarre ideas.

We reviewed Loneliness of the Soul by the controversial Royal Academician, Tracy Emin. This will give you a taste of what to expect.

The Royal Academy has free galleries and loos…the outdoor cafe with its tables and umbrellas is a nice place to sip cappuccino away from the bustle of Piccadilly.

The Burlington Arcade

Next door to the Royal Academy is the Burlington Arcade an indoor shopping street with luxury brands and a distinctive period feel.

Fortnum & Mason

Opposite the Royal Academy is Fortnum & Mason, the Queen’s Grocer. Pay a visit to see its beautiful food displays. Tourists beat a path here for its legendary loose tea and quality preserves.

No need to buy groceries, some say that afternoon tea at Fortnum’s is the best in London.

Fortnum & Mason with its fabulous window displays and artistically arranged food.

You may enjoy our post on Where to buy tea in London and you can get an idea of what they sell from our post on a Fortnum and Mason Hamper for for a Londoner.

Hatchards

If you walk up Piccadilly, past Fortnums, you will see the Royal book seller Hatchards. It has an old fashioned, very British style and service making it a fascinating place to browse.

There are a couple of notable book sellers in Piccadilly including Waterstone’s which is the biggest book store in Europe with 8 miles of books.

St James’s Palace

Behind Fortnums and Hatchards you will find Jermyn Street with its small artisan shops selling everything from cheese to toiletries, men’s clothing and chocolates.

From here you can walk to St James’s Palace and Clarence House, the London Residence of King Charles III and Queen Camilla.

5. Piccadilly Circus

Piccadilly Circus

Piccadilly Circus is London’s equivalent of New York’s Times Square.

If I am honest, it’s not my thing not least because it is crowded with young people enjoying raucous street entertainment.

Visit to take souvenir photos of the Eros Statue, Piccadilly Circus and the LED advertising which is especially spectacular at dusk.

If you are one of the gilded youth, you maybe able to pick up the man or woman of your dreams by sitting on the steps of the Eros Statue.

The Criterion Theatre and the Criterion Restaurant

The charming Criterion Theatre with its distinctive 20’s vibe faces the Eros statue.

Next door, you’ll find the preserved gold mosaic interior of the former Criterion Restaurant . Lately, it has gone downmarket and is now a chain Indian restaurant. Not all progress is improvement.

Brasserie Zedel

If you are hungry, I can recommend a hidden gem. Brasserie Zedel with its well priced set menus is a basement restaurant on the Regent’s Street Side of Piccadilly Circus. It looks like a small cafe above ground and nothing alerts you to its gleaming Gallic interior and crystal chandelier.

The plush French brasserie styled interior of Brasserie Zedel

We have produced a detailed review of the Brasserie Zedel set menus.

At Brasserie Zedel you will also find the Art Deco American Bar which serves classic cocktails and the vibrant red and black Crazy Coqs night club.

The Crazy Coqs night club at Brasserie Zedel

Regent’s Street

Regent’s Street is less crowded than Oxford Circus with more style and class. It contains many mid priced stores like Zara and H&M alongside luxury brands.

At the top of Regent’s Street, you will find Liberty with its Revival Tudor frontage constructed from the timbers of three ancient battle ships.

Now return to Piccadilly Circus and get comfy on the bus as we are heading to a famous sight…one that screams London.

6. Trafagar Square

Trafalgar Square

This historic square was designed by John Nash to commemorate the Battle of Trafalgar. It is now a popular meeting point and site for political demonstrations. Look out for the fourth plinth which is a showcase contemporary art.

The National Gallery

At the north end of the square you will see the National Gallery with its free public exhibitions containing the works of almost every painter of any note from Rembrandt to the Impressionists.

The National Portrait Gallery

Around the corner from the National Gallery is the newly refurbished National Portrait Gallery. This used to be a dusty mausoleum of an art gallery until they hired Sir Roy Strong as its flamboyant and creative director. He breathed a new life into its exhibitions and you will see all sorts of work that push the boundaries of what’s possible in portrait painting.

The London Coliseum

Opposite the National Portrait Gallery in Saint Martin’s Lane, you will find the London Coliseum which is home to the English National Opera.

The ENO is famed for its inclusivity with seats starting at £10. There are some fantastic offers for new opera goers, school children and the under 35s.

All of its operas are sung in English. Note the the opera season here is from Autumn to Spring.

7. Southampton Street/Covent Garden

Covent Garden Market

Now you are probably on your knees with exhaustion, so I would recommend making Covent Garden your final stop. This used to be a fruit and vegetable market but now it has a lively street market selling art, crafts and London souvenirs.

Covent Garden Street Performers

A Covent Garden Street Performer on her lunch break.

Covent Garden is just the place for a coffee, drink or ice cream while watching street performers. Last time I was in Covent Garden I stumbled upon the ice cream bar Milk Train. Their sundaes looked amazing. There were queues round the block so clearly they tasted amazing too.

Covent Garden Restaurants

Notable restaurants here are the historic Rules which specialises in British cuisine like pies and puddings and Balthazar – a stylish French restaurant.

Regular opera goers also recommend Le Garrick and Frenchie for their reasonably priced pre opera menus.

The Royal Opera House

A grand finale for your could be a trip to the opera. You can have the experience of a lifetime by visiting the Royal Opera House where you will hear world class performers singing opera in glorious burgundy velvet surroundings.

Concluding our London Red Bus Tour

Don’t you think that it is amazing what you can see for the cost of a £5.25 one day bus pass? If you take this tour as a single journey without leaving the bus it will cost £1.75. You can pay by Oystercard or credit card. If you have travelled in by tube, your budget London red bus tour will be part of your capped daily spend, therefore it may cost you no extra.

September 10, 2023September 15, 2023

Crossrail Place Roof Garden – Canary Wharf’s Hidden Leafy Spot

Crossrail Place Roof Garden is a leafy oasis hidden in the roof top of the Canary Wharf Elizabeth Line. Canary Wharf, home to our corporate sector, is an urban mass of concrete and glass. So the thought of spending a half an hour looking at tropical greenery with great views out over West India Quay dock is appealing.

The History of Crossrail Place Roof Garden

At least our town planners thought so. In 2008, they hired notable architects Foster + Partners to design this indoor park brim full of unusual and exotic plants. And tucked away amongst the foliage is a performing arts space.

Foster + Partners are luxury casting indeed for such a project. They are the firm responsible for other iconic architectural masterpieces including the neo furturistic central courtyard of the British Museum and the landmark Gherkin building in the heart of London’s financial district.

You’ll notice Foster + Partners trademark triangles in the garden roof design.

Trademark triangles in the Crossrail Place Roof Garden

Shaped like a ship and laden with exotic plant species

The Crossrail Place building reflects Canary Wharf’s maritime history and the outstanding water-side views.

5 Reasons to Visit the Crossrail Place Roof Garden

If you are expecting anything on the scale of the Victorian greenhouses in Kew Gardens you are going to be disappointed. You could probably walk round the whole garden and study the plants in less 20 minutes. Therefore, it doesn’t merit a full day’s visit and is best combined with other activities. Consider visiting after a trip to the London Museum Docklands.

Interesting hoof shaped park bench sculpture

Here are some ideas for enjoying the garden

Bring a picnic lunch with you and eat it sitting on one of the many benches in the garden
Grab a coffee from a ground floor coffee shop and enjoy it in tropical leafy splendour
Make it a meeting point for a blind date. Walk round and admire the plants. If the date goes well, you can always suggest a drink in the restaurant at the back of the garden
Bring a book to read and use it as an opportunity to decompress

The Planting Plan for Crossrail Place Roof Garden

You may think that Foster + Partners have overthought the planting plan!

The garden lies directly north of Greenwich on the Prime Meridian. Therefore, they have divided the plant species into varieties that grow on the west and east hemispheres.

In the Western Hemisphere section (the Americas New Zealand and Australia) you’ll find plants like:

Soft tree fern
Golden tree fern
New Zealand fern
Sweet gum
Strawberry tree

Ferns in the Western Hemisphere of the Crossrail Place Roof Garden

In the Eastern Hemisphere (Europe, Africa, Asia and Russia) you’ll find plants such as:

Northern Japanese maple
Black bamboo
Northern Japanese magnolia
Veitch bamboo

Bamboos in the Eastern Hemisphere of the Crossrail Place Roof Garden

The Crossrail Gardens website has more information on the plants and planting plan.

If you are enjoying this piece on Crossrail Place Roof Garden, check out our post on Kew Gardens in Winter and Richmond Park.

Dr Nathaniel Bagshaw Ward and the Invention of the Terrarium

Crossrail Place Roof Garden resembles an Enormous Terrarium

If you think that the garden is similar in design to a terrarium you are entirely correct.

Nathaniel Ward was a botanist who invented a sealed glass container which was used for transporting plants from overseas to Europe. The survival of many of the species found in this garden is due to his invention of the Wardian Case as it was known.

Find the Story Dispenser Near the Restaurant

With relaxation in mind, there is a story dispenser situated near the restaurant. You decide whether you want to read for one, three or five minutes and the machine dispenses a ticker tape print out of a story.

Crossrail Place Roof Garden in a Nutshell

Great views over the Canary Wharf docks and buildings
Sublime Foster +Partners architecture
Exotic plant species
A place to meet friends or relax

Practical Information About Crossrail Place Roof Garden

Directions to the Crossrail Place Roof Garden

How to find it

Come out of the station at Canary Wharf’s Elizabeth Line and take the entrance behind you. You will see a cartoonish multi coloured wall with escalator and lift to the roof garden.

Do you need tickets?

No tickets are required to the garden just arrive and enjoy.

Is the garden free to visit?

Yes, there is nothing to pay.

What are the garden’s opening hours?

The garden is open from 9am to 9pm. You can check on the Crossrail Place Roof Garden website.

How big is the garden?

You can walk around the gardens in about 15-20 minutes. It’s long enough to enjoy a coffee or a chat with a friend.

March 8, 2023September 17, 2023

Filthy Lucre – The Whistler Peacock Room Spat

Filthy Lucre is a free immersive installation which was on the ground floor of the V&A and tells the story of the Whistler Peacock Room. This turquoise and gold dining room that shines like a jewel box and is adorned with oriental ceramics was the subject of a nasty and bitter spat.

How the Whistler Peacock Room Argument Started

How would you feel if while you were away on business, you hired a decorator to paint your dining room and then you returned to a bill of £200,000? Mightily hacked off I suspect!

And then let’s imagine that you regained your composure, told the decorator to stop work and offered to pay him half the fee, but he then crept back into your house and painted cartoons on your wall of warring peacocks. A thinly veiled insult and admonishment of your parsimoniousness.

This story is the inspiration behind the Filthy Lucre exhibition at the V&A.

It’s hard to believe that there can be any debate about who is in the right of over this. It’s a commonly held view that the man who pays the piper calls the tune. But this is exactly what happened when Frederick Leyland hired James Abott McNeill Whistler to paint a room in his house in Kensington.

Leyland Consults a Talented but Little Known Artist

Frederick Leyland had purchased a Whistler painting which had pride of place in his dining room. At the time, Whistler was a largely unknown artist whose main claim to fame was a rather dour portrait of his mother. So when Leyland wanted to redesign the interior of his dining room in Kensington to house his collection of oriental porcelain, he felt safe in consulting the artist for his opinion on the colour scheme, without fearing a massive bill.

Leyland Gives His Design Team a Free Reign

Frederick Leyland, a successful business man, was working in Liverpool at the time and unfortunately, his project manager, Thomas Jeckyll, had became sick. This gave Whistler a free reign to do as he pleased. And this he did. He got more and more carried away with murals and embellishments and as the project progressed, he had new and better ideas which would bump up the time and the cost, until the room looked like a gleaming Aladdin’s cave.

Well, you know, I just painted on. I went on—without design or sketch—putting in every touch with such freedom … And the harmony in blue and gold developing, you know, I forgot everything in my joy of it.”

Whistler got so carried away he even painted over a 16th Century Cordoba leather wall panel that had been owned by Catherine of Aragon for which Leyland had paid £1000.

Whistler was ecstatic with the creation of the room and even wrote to Leyland telling him of the delightful surprise that would be awaiting him on his return.

Leyland Receives an Extortionate Bill

Unfortunately, the true surprise was the bill (in today’s money) for £200,000!

Leyland was incandescent with rage (probably seething more at his own stupidity for not agreeing the fee, at the outset and in black and white). Leyland offered Whistler half of this extortionate bill but instead of being pleased, Whistler regarded it as an insult to his artistic talents.

The Spat Between Artist and Patron Becomes Newspaper Gossip

The society pages of the newspapers loved the spat and reported with glee at the ongoing state of warfare between both parties.

The exhibition title Filthy Lucre reflects the bitter dispute over Leyland’s non payment of Whistler’s extortionate fee.

Whistler Gets His Revenge

Whistler in his fury and probably spurred on by the notoriety of the matter, re-entered his client’s house and delivered his final blow – a mural of two sparring peacocks on the wall – one represented Leyland adorned in gold coins, with a nasty twisted face, and the other Whistler, who was fighting for his rights. Filthy lucre indeed.

Who is to Blame in the Filthy Lucre – Whistler Peacock Room Spat?

One could say that Whistler was naive in accepting an interior design commission without agreeing the brief in writing but I think that the blame lies elsewhere. Frederick Leyland had underestimated the laziness and self serving avarice of Whistler who had become accustomed to lounging about cafes and living off his friends. In fact, in his youth he had freeloaded off a wealthy Baltimore friend Tom Winnans and used cash gifts from him to go to Paris for art training. And in Paris he met another friend, George Lucas who also financed his lifestyle.

Whistler was a man who lived his life permanently in debt and with considerable expensive vices like excessive drinking and smoking and used people for his own ends.

He had met his match with Frederick Leyland, who was not going to be taken for a ride, even if it meant that he suffered ridicule and was the brunt of society gossip…and good for him!

The V&A Filthy Lucre Installation

Darren Waterston has ingeniously reimagined the Whistler Peacock Room and added all sorts of twisted, distorted and broken features which embody the soured relationship between the two protagonists of this sorry tale. In the background, there is an eerie sound track of gossiping and torment.

I am not sure what Darren Waterstone’s budget was for Filthy Lucre but I am assuming that it was considerably less than what Whistler was trying to charge the hapless Frederick Leyland.

As you clearly like history, you may want to try a completely different kind of museum Take a look at our post on the Churchill War Rooms.

Where is the Whistler Peacock Room Now?

So what happened to the Whistler Peacock Room? The room is now revered as a fine example of Anglo-Japanese Style. It was moved lock, stock and smoking barrel to the Freer Sackler Gallery at the Smithsonian Institution in the Washington D.C.

We took photographs of the stunning V&A architecture during the pandemic when the museum was nearly empty. Please check it out.

Find Out More About the Filthy Lucre Exhibition

The Filthy Lucre – Whistler Peacock Room installation is now closed but you can find out more about it on the the V&A website.

Maxine Morse
Oct 1, 2023 · 12 mins

Budget London Red Bus Tour using Public Transport

Looking for a London Red Bus Tour and don’t want to pay through the nose for an overpriced tour? Have you thought of seeing...
Maxine Morse
Sep 10, 2023 · 5 mins

Crossrail Place Roof Garden – Canary Wharf’s Hidden Leafy Spot

Crossrail Place Roof Garden is a leafy oasis hidden in the roof top of the Canary Wharf Elizabeth Line. Canary Wharf, home to...
Maxine Morse
Mar 8, 2023 · 6 mins

Filthy Lucre – The Whistler Peacock Room Spat

Filthy Lucre is a free immersive installation which was on the ground floor of the V&A and tells the story of the Whistler...