Marylebone on a Budget – Shopping and Sight Seeing Paradise

Marylebone on a Budget

Marylebone on a budget? It can be done! Explore this little known area sandwiched between Marble Arch and Baker’s Street with a unique village atmosphere, many independent shops, a church that rivals some cathedrals and a sumptuously ornate, free museum. Here is a nuts and bolts guide on how you can have a fabulous day in Marylebone on the cheap.
Each month I show you how to plan a budget day out in an interesting part of London, I throw in some cheap eats, shopping and culture and help you do it for less than £15. If you are travelling on a shoestring budget read on…

Rules for the Marylebone on a Budget, London for £15 challenge

I don’t include tube travel …the over 60s with a London address have a Oyster 60+ card which gives them free travel on the London Underground and buses. Many working Londoners are using Oyster cards with capped daily spends and and most tourists have a prepaid Oyster card.
And I don’t include memberships. If you are a Londoner on a low budget, I advise you to stock up on every subscription and membership that you can lay your hands on…just make sure that they are for venues that you will actually go to several times in the course of the year.

Why Marylebone High Street?

Marylebone is probably the only place that I can think of in the centre of London that has a village feel with markets, charity shops, churches and museums. It has a great foodie vibe with a handful of artisan food shops with authentic produce…no E numbers or factory produce here. What appeals to me is the sheer variety of sights and activities all with the feel of London a hundred years ago.

Moxton Street – a Foodie Heaven off Marylebone High Street

Moxton Street is the epicentre of foodie heaven with some surprising budget finds. At the weekends there is a food market at the end of the road where locals buy their produce and they then stop off at La Fromagerie to recover from their exertions and catch up with friends. Bill Nighy is often spotted in the restaurant Aubaine opposite.

Ginger Pig

The Ginger Pig is renowned for offering a roast lunch which is costed by weight…pork, stuffing, gravy…roasted vegetables with minty, lemony seasonings and gravy. There are also pies worthy of any Charles Dickens novel…hot sausage rolls, Cornish pasties etc. You can easily pick up allow cost takeaway lunch here for £5-£8.
The Butchery section of Marylebone's famous Ginger Pig.
The Butchery section of Marylebone’s famous Ginger Pig.
A good selection of high quality low priced cold meat pies
A good selection of high quality low priced cold meat pies
Great value sausage rolls. Choose the hot ones.
Great value sausage rolls. Choose the hot ones.
Roast pork with vegetables and salad priced by weight. Infinitely more delicious than the photograph.
Roast pork with vegetables and salad priced by weight. Infinitely more delicious than the photograph.

La Fromagerie

And then head next door to La Fromagerie which prides itself on sourcing its ingredients directly from top artisanal producers in the UK and Europe.Their food is fresh and beautifully presented. At the rear of the shop are tables dedicated to people sampling cheese boards and wine and there is a cafe with a small kitchen menu that includes the very popular Portuguese Sardines on toasted sough dough with caper berries and Amalfi lemon at £11.50…but as we are on a shoestring budget, I recommend sticking with the picnic idea from the Ginger Pig. Or to hell with it…blow your budget on a Yorkshire Salt Beef Sandwich with homemade slaw at £12 and focus on free activities for the rest of the day!
Whole Cheeses in the Window of La Fromagerie in Marylebone.
Whole Cheeses in the Window of La Fromagerie in Marylebone.
Beautiful Food Displays at La Fromagerie.
Beautiful Food Displays at La Fromagerie.
Go for the Carrot Cake a bargain at £3.20
Go for the Carrot Cake a bargain at £3.20
You can return to La Fromagerie for afternoon tea. They have home made cakes with deep buttery icing that they serve in gargantuan slices…enough for two people. Their cakes are are really good value at £3-£4 a slice, approximately.

If you are enjoying this post on shopping and sightseeing in Marylebone on a budget you may also like to read  20 Free Things to do in London (or Nearly Free) That You’ll Love.

Marylebone High Street

Pret

After that culinary overload you need to rest, so off to Pret. For frequent low budget adventurers I recommend the Pret Subscription as it allows you to have a free drink every 30 minutes, up to 5 times a day, for £30 a month and 10% off the food menu. Get a free barista coffee, or a cup of British Breakfast tea and leave the tea bag in to steep to get the full malty caffeine hit. I usually park myself on one of their outside tables and eat my picnic there. I know that this is frowned on but no one has said anything yet!

Charity Shops

The adjacent residential houses in Marylebone are all worth millions. They are where the super rich live. So it should come as no surprise that the charity shops on Marylebone High Street are choc full of discarded designer clothes, many unworn and still tagged from Harrods and Harvey Nichols.
Unlike the London suburbs. where you can pick up a piece of bargain second hand clothing for a couple of quid, these charity shop managers know how to price but you’d still be paying a fraction of the cost new.
Even if you don’t buy anything in the charity shops it is fun to look.
Found in a Marylebone charity shop. Is this a bargain? A £150 Pucci silk scarf.
Found in a Marylebone charity shop. Is this a bargain? A £150 Pucci silk scarf.

Daunt Books

Welcome to Daunt Books which is probably the most photographed book store in London – an independent bookseller with an original Edwardian interior featuring a two storey gallery which contributes to its olde world charms.
This is the place where celebrities come to do their book signings, so be sure to check out their Events page. Boris Johnson was photographed here recently.
Daunt Books exterior on Marylebone High Street
Daunt Books exterior on Marylebone High Street.
Gallery at Daunt Books
Gallery at Daunt Books
There is a huge selection of London books including this one on London for free.
There is a huge selection of London books including this one on London for free.

St James’s Church a Marylebone Church with a Beautiful Gothic Interior

St James’s Church in Spanish Place is not on the tourist circuit but it has an interior that would rival that of many a famous European cathedral. It’s in an early Gothic style. There has been a church in this site for centuries and the current church opened in 1890. There are beautiful paintings, statues and brasses. The church does a lot of work for the homeless. There is a daily mass. The church is free to visit and is a must for your Marylebone on a budget day out – you can make a small donation in the boxes provided.
St James's church exterior in Marylebone with its flying buttress
St James’s church exterior in Marylebone with its flying buttress
Gothic revival interior.
Gothic revival interior.
Polished brass tomb covering.
Polished brass tomb covering.
Altar frieze.
Altar frieze.

Wallace Collection is Marylebone’s Glitzy Glamorous Free Museum

The Wallace Collection is the jewel of Marylebone – a gilded, glitzy, glamorous museum in Manchester Square. It is stuffed with objet d’art, hand carved furniture, armoury and marble statues. And best of all it is free to visit but a small donation is encouraged.
Visit Marylebone's free museum and see this amazing ornate fireplace offset by red flock wallpaper.
Visit Marylebone’s free museum and see this amazing ornate fireplace offset by red flock wallpaper.
Frans Hals The Laughing Cavalier
Frans Hals The Laughing Cavalier
The grand marble staircase with gilded balustrade and burgundy carpet.
The grand marble staircase with gilded balustrade and burgundy carpet.

Are you thinking of a day out away from London? We have a fabulous post on a day trip to Lewes (East Sussex) and its surrounding villages.


Wallace Collection Museum Shop

The Wallace Collection museum shop has things that you might actually want in your home which makes it a rare find in the world of souvenir type shops and it is not too pricy.
Stylish dressing gowns many with London maps or typography.
Stylish dressing gowns many with London maps or typography.
For those looking for a tasteful apron depicting a naked man.
For those looking for a tasteful apron depicting a naked man.
Entry to exhibitions is currently £14 but you can buy annual membership for the Wallace Collection that would give you free entry to exhibitions for a year for £45 (single adult membership 2023). If you have a National Arts Club Fund membership you can gain admission at a 50% discount for £7. And of course, if you are on a tight budget and without the necessary memberships, there’s plenty to see in the free permanent galleries.

Harley Street and Selfridges

I ended my day with a walk down Harley Street gazing at the practitioners’ plaques and window boxes and did a bit of browsing in Selfridges.

Instead of heading south towards Oxford Street you could extend your day by going north towards Baker’s Street and visiting the free Queen Mary’s Rose Garden in Regents Park. We have a blog post entitled Queen Mary’s Rose Garden – A Sublime Floral Display.


Total Spend for my Marylebone on a Budget Day Out

My low cost day in Marylebone was only £3.20! I only spent money on the cake in La Fromagerie. I was gifted a few food samples as part of my blog research which kept me going.
If you had a picnic lunch from the Ginger Pig or one of the many cafes in Marylebone High Street, used your Pret subscription and focussed on free entry to the church and the Wallace Collection you could have a fab day out for well under £15.
There’s far more to see in Marylebone on a budget, so please subscribe so you don’t miss another London for £15 blog post in the area.

Filthy Lucre – The Whistler Peacock Room Spat

 

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Filthy Lucre is a free immersive installation which was on the ground floor of the V&A and tells the story of the Whistler Peacock Room.  This turquoise and gold dining room that shines like a jewel box and is adorned with oriental ceramics was the subject of a nasty and bitter spat. 

How the Whistler Peacock Room Argument Started

How would you feel if while you were away on business, you hired a decorator to paint your dining room and then you returned to a bill of £200,000? Mightily hacked off I suspect!

And then let’s imagine that you regained your composure, told the decorator to stop work and offered to pay him half the fee, but he then crept back into your house and painted cartoons on your wall of warring peacocks. A thinly veiled insult and admonishment of your parsimoniousness.

This story is the inspiration behind the Filthy Lucre exhibition at the V&A.

It’s hard to believe that there can be any debate about who is in the right of over this. It’s a commonly held view that the man who pays the piper calls the tune. But this is exactly what happened when Frederick Leyland hired James Abott McNeill Whistler to paint a room in his house in Kensington.

A display of oriental ceramics
A display of oriental ceramics

Leyland Consults a Talented but Little Known Artist

Frederick Leyland had purchased a Whistler painting which had pride of place in his dining room. At the time, Whistler was a largely unknown artist whose main claim to fame was a rather dour portrait of his mother. So when Leyland wanted to redesign the interior of his dining room in Kensington to house his collection of oriental porcelain, he felt safe in consulting the artist for his opinion on the colour scheme, without fearing a massive bill.

Leyland Gives His Design Team a Free Reign

Frederick Leyland, a successful business man, was working in Liverpool at the time and unfortunately, his project manager, Thomas Jeckyll, had became sick. This gave Whistler a free reign to do as he pleased. And this he did. He got more and more carried away with murals and embellishments and as the project progressed, he had new and better ideas which would bump up the time and the cost, until the room looked like a gleaming Aladdin’s cave.

Well, you know, I just painted on. I went on—without design or sketch—putting in every touch with such freedom … And the harmony in blue and gold developing, you know, I forgot everything in my joy of it.”

Distorted gilded shelving.
Distorted gilded shelving.

Whistler got so carried away he even painted over a 16th Century Cordoba leather wall panel that had been owned by Catherine of Aragon for which Leyland had paid £1000.

Whistler was ecstatic with the creation of the room and even wrote to Leyland telling him of the delightful surprise that would be awaiting him on his return.

Leyland Receives an Extortionate Bill

Unfortunately, the true surprise was the bill (in today’s money) for £200,000!

Leyland was incandescent with rage (probably seething more at his own stupidity for not agreeing the fee, at the outset and in black and white). Leyland offered Whistler half of this extortionate bill but instead of being pleased, Whistler regarded it as an insult to his artistic talents.

A broken ceramic vase
A broken ceramic vase

The Spat Between Artist and Patron Becomes Newspaper Gossip

The society pages of the newspapers loved the spat and reported with glee at the ongoing state of warfare between both parties.

The exhibition title Filthy Lucre reflects the bitter dispute over Leyland’s non payment of Whistler’s extortionate fee.

Whistler Gets His Revenge

Whistler in his fury and probably spurred on by the notoriety of the matter, re-entered his client’s house and delivered his final blow – a mural of two sparring peacocks on the wall – one represented Leyland adorned in gold coins, with a nasty twisted face, and the other Whistler, who was fighting for his rights. Filthy lucre indeed.

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Who is to Blame in the Filthy Lucre – Whistler Peacock Room Spat?

One could say that Whistler was naive in accepting an interior design commission without agreeing the brief in writing but I think that the blame lies elsewhere. Frederick Leyland had underestimated the laziness and self serving avarice of Whistler who had become accustomed to lounging about cafes and living off his friends. In fact, in his youth he had freeloaded off a wealthy Baltimore friend Tom Winnans and used cash gifts from him to go to Paris for art training. And in Paris he met another friend, George Lucas who also financed his lifestyle.

Whistler was a man who lived his life permanently in debt and with considerable expensive vices like excessive drinking and smoking and used people for his own ends.

He had met his match with Frederick Leyland, who was not going to be taken for a ride, even if it meant that he suffered ridicule and was the brunt of society gossip…and good for him!

The V&A Filthy Lucre Installation

Darren Waterston has ingeniously reimagined the Whistler Peacock Room and added all sorts of twisted, distorted and broken features which embody the soured relationship between the two protagonists of this sorry tale. In the background, there is an eerie sound track of gossiping and torment.

I am not sure what Darren Waterstone’s budget was for Filthy Lucre but I am assuming that it was considerably less than what Whistler was trying to charge the hapless Frederick Leyland.


As you clearly like history, you may want to try a completely different kind of museum Take a look at our post on the Churchill War Rooms.


Where is the Whistler Peacock Room Now?

So what happened to the Whistler Peacock Room? The room is now revered as a fine example of Anglo-Japanese Style. It was moved lock, stock and smoking barrel to the Freer Sackler Gallery at the Smithsonian Institution in the Washington D.C.


We took photographs of the stunning V&A architecture during the pandemic when the museum was nearly empty. Please check it out.


Find Out More About the Filthy Lucre Exhibition

The Filthy Lucre – Whistler Peacock Room installation is now closed but you can find out more about it on the the V&A website.

Loneliness of the Soul – A Review of the Emin – Munch Exhibition

The Loneliness of the Soul exhibition at the Royal Academy engenders such a sense of gloom and despair. Good art can be a mixed bag of the beautiful, skilful, thought provoking and shocking but it is rare to find an exhibition that is as doom ridden as the Emin Munch.

I have never really subscribed to the view that the purpose of art is to adorn walls…which is just as well!

Loneliness of the Soul
Loneliness of the Soul

Loneliness of the Soul – Tracey Emin, the Enfant Terrible of the Art World

Tracey Emin, the enfant terrible of the art world, is probably best known for the unmade bed art installation of 1999, littered with blood stained underwear and used condoms, famously exhibited at the Tate and she’s been building on the themes of sex, abuse, rape, trauma and unrequited love ever since.

Tracey Emin Unmade Bed
Tracey Emin Unmade Bed

Given that there are a torrent of paintings on the horrors of sex, and given that she’s the constant…you feel like shaking her and screaming, somewhat suburbanly, “Surely they can’t all have been bastards?” or “Why don’t you give these guys a wide berth and find someone nice and boring?”.

Tracey Emin Neon Art
Tracey Emin Neon Art

The Commoditisation of Angst

But sex and tragedy not only sell newspapers, they also sell art.

Tracey Emin Nude
Tracey Emin Nude

Could this be a nude? You decide!
Could this be a nude? You decide!

Tracey Emin Another Anguished Nude
Tracey Emin Another Anguished Nude

Here is a woman who has not only commercialised a troubled past but has managed to use it to rise to the top of the art world. She is now a Royal Academician and Professor of Drawing at the Royal Academy, a dizzying achievement in a male dominated arena.

Edvard Munch as Muse

And then there is the link with Munch, famed for The Scream, whose work acted as catalyst for this collection. But honestly, in the Loneliness of the Soul exhibition, Munch’s paintings seemed docile and urbane in comparison. There are no overtly angry or sexual political points to be seen.

Edvard Munch Nude
Edvard Munch tame in comparison to Tracey Emin

Conservative with a Capital C

If you think, based on her art and reputation, that Tracey Emin is left of the left you’d be wrong. A journalist reported that she had considered moving to France to dodge our punitive tax regime, that she is a Royalist and voted Conservative in the 2010 election.

Maybe in her later years, Tracey Emin will see fit to paint pictures depicting the joys of human relationships or still lives of flowers and cats. In the meantime visit the Royal Academy for the thought provoking Loneliness of the Soul exhibition.

Naive Portrait of a happy Cat which is definitely not part of the Loneliness of the Soul exhibition.