Così Fan Tutte ENO – REVIEW by Maxine Morse, 10 March 22

Così Fan Tutte ENO feels brilliantly contemporary for an opera that roughly translates into “all women are like that” with its sexual stereotyping and theme of infidelity.  Its success lies in its translation by Jeremy Sams of the Italian libretto into humorous, vernacular English, Tom Pye’s lavish Coney Island fairground sets and the casting of Soraya Mafi as Despina, the motel maid with the common touch.

Così Fan Tutte ENO 22 , Hanna Hipp, Nardus Williams, Soraya Mafi © Lloyd Winters
Così Fan Tutte ENO 22 , Hanna Hipp, Nardus Williams, Soraya Mafi © Lloyd Winters

 

As the strong man, oriental woman, performing dwarfs and other circus ensemble emerge from a wooden casket, we are pitched into PT Barnum’s Greatest Show on Earth. The direction of this revival by Phelim McDermott is slick, well-paced and polished – everything shines from the opera performances to the comic timing, even the kick in the balls from an angry fiancée looks painful.

Two sisters are victims of a cynical wager in which a philosopher and impresario, Don Alfonso (Neal Davies) bets two lovers Guglielmo (Benson Wilson) and Ferrando (Amitai Pati) that their girlfriends won’t stay faithful to them in their absence. A plot is hatched in which the men pretend to go off to fight for their country leaving their girlfriends behind. The men reappear in disguise and successfully woo each other’s partners.

To pull off this trick, Don Alfonso ropes in a motel maid Despina, who is furtively sipping hot chocolate destined for the guests (“they get the chocolate, I get the smell”). In the best British sit com tradition, she stuffs the bribe down her bra and then moves heaven and earth to get the two sisters to break their vows. This involves Despina in adopting different guises including posing as Doctor Magnetico with his vibration machine and arranging a Las Vegas style wedding dressed as a cow girl in a Stetson. Through it all, her singing is as clear as a bell with an East End cockney twang.

The chemistry between Fiordiligi (Nardus Williams) and her sister Dorabella (Hanna Hipp) is obvious. We could be in any young girls’ bedroom. They muse about missing their men and talk of looking for someone young, handsome and rich. Their duets were both conversational and glorious.

Kerem Hasan conducts the music with perfect timing and volume to support the voices and create a seamless and sensational aural performance.

In Act Two, I noticed some interesting changes in the audience…kids in a balcony box waved at the circus performers, press hacks stopped scribbling and the surtitles were ignored as all eyes were on the stage.

Così Fan Tutte  (ENO) places the audience into a Tilt-a-Whirl, gives their cars a good spin and lurches them round bunny clubs, sugared-almond fairgrounds, retro circuses with authentically painted circus hoardings, courtesy of Joby Carter, and then abruptly plunges them into depression era movie motels before taking them up to sublime arias from hot air balloons. We are wildly spinning in countless different directions but instead of becoming green about the gills and throwing up our dinner, we don’t want to get off.


Maxine Morse  wrote this review of Così Fan Tutte as part of her opera critics training at the English National Opera. To see other reviews from her training see The Valkyrie, HMS Pinafore, The Handmaid’s Tale, Satyagraha, The Cunning Little Vixen and La Boheme.


 

REVIEW: La Bohème at the London Coliseum by Maxine Morse, 4 February 22

The opening scene depicts scrounging, work shy flat sharers who are late with their rent and have no money for fuel or food. This society is clearly going to the dogs.

ENO La bohème 2022, Charles Rice, David Junghoon Kim, Sinéad Campbell-Wallace © Genevieve Girling
ENO La bohème 2022, Charles Rice, David Junghoon Kim, Sinéad Campbell-Wallace © Genevieve Girling

Variations of the La Bohème theme are on the inside pages of every popular, contemporary newspaper. Perhaps this explains the enduring appeal of this 1896 Puccini opera. It speaks to the human condition. There are no convoluted highly romanticised plots and subplots or Biblical epics with severed heads on gilded platters here.

Jonathan Miller’s production is a cross between the grey scenes of Lowry’s industrial northern poverty and Renoir’s detailed cameos of Parisienne life. Hats off to Crispin Lord, the revival director for his inclusive casting…Rodolfo (David Junghoon Kim) is a sensitive lover not a Brad Pitt lookalike, Mimi (Sinèad Campbell-Wallace) exudes seamstress-like common sense and is not the poverty-stricken waif so often depicted and Musetta is more sex bomb than harlot.

Isabella Bywater’s staging is magnificent. A gargantuan, murky edifice rotates fairground style from the freezing, spartan Crittall windowed garret to a sumptuous, joyful, bustling Christmas Eve street scene. Children chase the toy seller (Adam Sullivan) and a brass band booms. In the crowded Café Momus, amidst a confusion of toasts, camaraderie and flirtation, our impoverished bohèmians manage to palm Alcindoro (Simon Butteriss) Musetta’s elderly suitor off with their bill.

David Junghoon Kim’s vocal performance hits the highs but his lower range is sometimes drowned out by an over enthusiastic orchestra. Sinèad Campbell-Wallace singing is light, clear and crisp like the winter air. Charles Rice (Marcello), William Thomas (Colline) and Benson Wilson (Schaunard) bring some laddish musical weight to the attic scenes. Louise Alder’s performance of Musetta was fruity and rich, a joy to listen to.

Simon Butteriss who is cast as both Benoît the landlord and Alcindoro the hapless, geriatric suitor, lends a light hearted Fawlty Towers element to the production with his masterly comic timing.

The only jarring note is the dance routine in the attic in Act IV. Surely, we need a spontaneous combustion of raucous abandonment rather than a careful choreographed audience facing jig. Why else would anyone dance in their flat?

I had the pleasure of sitting behind the conductor, Ben Glassberg. He was a joy watch. He felt the music with every hand movement and was visibly transported by it and he did a masterly job in conducting for both the joys and the sadness in the plot.

The audience were visibly transported by this performance as evidenced by the rapturous final applause. We were almost tasting the wine and praying for Spring.


This year I had the pleasure of reviewing another  fine production of La Boheme at Opera Holland Park.


Maxine Morse  wrote this review of La Boheme as part of her opera critics training at the English National Opera. To see other reviews from her training see The Valkyrie, HMS Pinafore, The Handmaid’s Tale, Cosi Fan Tutte, The Cunning Little Vixen, Satyagraha and La Boheme.


 

The Leake Street Tunnel – A Legal Graffiti Wall

The Leake Street Tunnel is a celebration of urban, hip, street culture. Here you will find an ever changing display of the best graffiti art in London alongside a cool theatre and an array of independent bars and restaurants. You can find the graffiti tunnel underneath Waterloo Station.

Leake Street Tunnel
Leake Street Tunnel

The Leake Street Tunnel is Unique

The Leake Street Tunnel is independently owned.  It is one of the only spaces in town where graffiti is not only legal but actively encouraged. The 300m tunnel of street art was started in 2008. Banksy had a street art festival here called “Cans”.

Restrictions on Graffiti Art

Graffiti outside of the authorised area is removed.

Sexist, racist and homophobic art is banned.

Recommended Visit Duration

You should plan to spend  between one and two hours in the tunnel…more if you bring your spray cans with you.

Photographing the Art Work

The art is edgy, colourful and ever changing.  New artists paint over old exhibits meaning that there is always something that you haven’t seen before. Happily, there are no restrictions on taking photographs. So come here with your smart phone and snap away. You can impress your friends, family and instagram followers.

Artists Painting in the Leake Street Tunnel
Artists Painting in the Leake Street Tunnel

Holding an Event

The owners actively encourage not for profit events. Send in an email request. These are usually approved within 24 hours.

Safety in the Leake Street Tunnel

Leave your beer cans at home. There is a written set of rules for the tunnel including a no alcohol or drugs policy.

I have always found artists working in the tunnel as I leave the Vaults theatre at night which makes it safer. Furthermore, local businesses in the tunnel usually have uniformed security on their doors. I have seen the occasional homeless person bedding down for the night.

You may feel more comfortable taking the usual London precautions of going earlier in the day, leaving valuables at home and not talking to “strange” strangers.

The Leake Street Tunnel Entrance
The Leake Street Tunnel Entrance

Finding the Leake Street Tunnel

The first time I tried to find the tunnel, I made the mistake of looking inside the basement of Waterloo Station. Don’t do this!

Waterloo Station has two exits – the main concourse with the main line trains and shops and the tube entrance. Exit via the London Underground tube entrance.

You will see the the round BFI IMAX building on your left as you come out of the tube.

Turn right and walk down until you see the Old Vic theatre ahead. At this crossroads turn right so you are walking towards the back of Waterloo Station.

After a couple of hundred metres you will see the graffiti tunnel on your right. So in other words it is found by turning right, then right, then right.

The official website for the Leake Street Tunnel explains the current rules for painting and contact details if you would like to hold an event.

If you like photographing London scenes you may enjoy this blog post on how to photograph St Paul’s Cathedral.

Is this the Best London Dessert?

We weren’t in search of the best London dessert. It found us as we were dining at The Wolseley, Piccadilly. Who would have thought that this marbled, monochrome London establishment, famed for its European cuisine, could be home to the most enormously exquisite banana split?

London Dessert at The Wolseley, Piccadilly
London Dessert at The Wolseley, Piccadilly

We Spotted this London Dessert on an Adjacent Table

Frankly we’d already stuffed our faces. My companion had partaken of the Hungarian Goulash with spaetzl noodles and I had indulged in a medium rare flat iron steak with a buttery bernaise sauce flecked with tarragon, pommes frites and a green salad. We were about to call it a day and finish with a modest macchiato coffee.  Then the waiter brought flamboyant ice cream coupes to the next table.

We stopped in our tracks. We put our gossip on hold. We turned to question these young men.

Their faces were beaming as you only do when you know that you have made the perfect menu choice. And no one was beaming more than the man who had ordered the best London dessert, The Wolseley banana split!

So caution was thrown to the wind. Fortunately, The Wolseley menu that we were given did not contain the calories of this banana split dessert confection (which I have since discovered online to be a whopping 1004).

The Wolseley Pared Down London Pudding Menu

Banana split has a bad rap. It seems like a strange choice for a London pudding pared down Wolseley menu.

It conjures up images of synthetic flavoured strawberry, chocolate and vanilla ice creams doused in a sauce that has never seen a chocolate bean and gaudy maraschino cherries sitting on a plainly split slightly un ripe banana…and woolfed down by college students in a kitsch 1950s diner.

The banana split was invented by an optometrist in 1904, David “Doc” Strickler from Pennsylvania who bought a drugstore and charged 10 cents for the creation,  twice the price of every other dessert on the menu.

Clearly this snippet of history has obviously given the The Wolseley in Piccadilly the courage to charge £11.95 for this dessert delicacy).

Memorable Chef Inspired Elements

There were many many things that make the Wolseley’s banana split the best  London dessert…

It is served in bespoke boat shaped pressed glassware on The Wolseley’s monogrammed china. The starched pristine table cloths and genuine electroplated cutlery look as if they have been in service since the turn of the century.

This London dessert delicacy is carried to the table like a religious icon in a church service and placed on the table with greatest of reverence.

And on to the components of this London dessert…
The perfect banana is crisply caramelised in butter and sugar.

Raspberry sauce nestles in folds of whipped cream in London's most sumptuous dessert finale.
Raspberry sauce nestles in folds of whipped cream in London’s most sumptuous dessert finale.

The finest London ice cream, tastes of nothing but egg yolks, cream and vanilla.

Double cream is whipped, aerosoled and perfectly dispensed in a precise, lacy frill.

Someone in the kitchen has taken fresh raspberries. Then combined them with sugar and strained the resulting syrup to remove the seeds before delicately dribbling it over the cream. Notice how the raspberry puree nestles in the folds of the cream with none of it dripping on to the ice cream below.

Crushed nuts, browned to a perfect pale shade of toastiness are scattered on top of this exquisite creation.

And let us not forget the chocolate sauce…bitter, rich with a just-melted-from-a-bar-of-70%-cocoa-solids taste is served in a small silver plated jug.

A rich chocolate sauce in a silver plated jug accompanies London's best dessert.
A rich chocolate sauce in a silver plated jug accompanies London’s best dessert.

My Suggestion for London Dessert Superlativeness

Such perfection is difficult to improve on.  My modest suggestion (if I dare) would be to include a small jug of caramel for those that prefer this to chocolate. It would add a level of Americaness, but why not? Fusion can only be a good thing when it comes to dessert heaven in London.

You may also enjoy our piece about great British puddings.

You can make a reservation at The Wolseley and sample their other delectable desserts by visiting their website here. Or you may want to peruse The Wolseley menu. But whatever you do make sure that you sample this spectacular London dessert.